Full pavé watches and baguette diamond indexes are just the tip of the iceberg.

Undoubtedly, one of the most prominent trends in the watch industry today is the premiumization of the favorites and the classics, and that is why gem-set and jewelry watches are making major appearances this year. Brands are shifting their creations upwards in terms of value, leaning much more towards precious metals such as gold and platinum, with some proffering exclusively forged gold and ethically sourced gold.

Precious stones are also extra conspicuous this year, and brands are not at all shying away from expressing a bold luxury aesthetic centered around diamonds, coloured stones and even gemstones that have never before been used in luxury watchmaking.

But gem-set and jewelry watches are more than just symbols of wealth. Gem-setting itself is regarded as a bona fide form of métiers d’arts.

And offering gem-set versions of an existing reference allows watchmakers to expand their range and appeal. Rexhepi Rexhepi for instance released two RRCC1s featuring ruby or diamond indexes, which he says is a fun and interesting way to show a different side of the RRCC1.

Meanwhile Simon Brette made a ravishing new Chronomètre Artisans set with diamonds and amethysts, which he shares, gave him a whole new perspective on gem-setting as a craft.

Sertissage as it is known, is a time-consuming and laborious process where each gemstone is selected, then cut, shaped, polished and finally set by hand into gold prongs by gem-setters working long hours at the bench. These gem-setters carefully mold the prongs over the stones, before polishing the gold to reflect maximum brilliance.

If there are a hundred stones on a watch, then the gem-setter would have to do this a hundred times.

And that’s just one of many gem-setting styles which range from classical brilliant cut stones on pronged setting to channel-set baguette-cut stones, invisible-setting, snow-setting arguably one of the most challenging styles, and more, each proposing a distinctive aesthetic. Full-pavé brilliant cut stones for instance offer that classic bling effect thanks to brilliant-cut stones which have a high number of facets, usually around 58.

On the other hand, baguette cut stones which have only 14 facets in total don’t sparkle as much but that only makes luxury connoisseurs covet them more, because they give a timepiece an understated appeal despite having a fully paved setting. Whether diamonds, emeralds, rubies or sapphires, gem-set and jewelry watches are truly having a moment these days, soaring in popularity not just among its conventional audience, women, but men as well.

And fuelling the meteoric rise of the gem-set timepiece are some of the industry’s top luxury maisons — you know who they are — along with a couple of interesting appearance, and all things considered, we’ve got to hand it to them for raising the bar on all fronts.

Rolex Excels in Gem-Set Watches

Apart from its perennially popular sports watches, gem-set watches is another category that Rolex does exceptionally well. So well, in fact, that if you really think about it, this rainbow watch trend that’s been going around the entire industry for years now was actually started by … Rolex.

Many off-catalog pieces are gloriously gem-set with precious stones. The rainbow Daytonas of course have ascended to new levels of mythical fame, as have the famous GMT-Master II “SARU,” but these latest Rolexes continue to showcase how the Crown truly devotes itself to the pursuit of perfection even when it comes to gem-stones, where nature usually dictates most of what may be achieved.

The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona marries precision and preciousness through a subtle interplay of monochromatic hues. White mother-of-pearl juxtaposes with black mother-of-pearl highlighted by the unique glimmer typically observed in nacre of the best quality.

Cut from the most ancient part of the mollusc’s shell which is also the part which is the thickest, the dial shimmers with a rich iridescence, offering much depth and nuance as if one were looking up at a sky full of clouds.

Paired with mother-of-pearl chronograph counters all cut from the same shell to preserve color and tonal consistency, you could even observe the textures of the mother-of-pearl in these three small surfaces. The Daytona reference 126589RBR and reference 126579RBR also feature eight brilliant cut diamond indexes and a further 36 sumptuously brilliant cut diamonds set around the bezel for maximum shine.

Moving away from the opulence of the brilliant stones, the new Rolex Day-Date 40 and 36 models elevate a timeless classic with the addition of elegant baguette-cut diamonds. These stones are set in place of indexes, paired either with a glorious white mother-of-pearl dial and framed by the signature fluted bezel, or a vibrant blue-green dial framed by a dazzling row of 60 trapeze-cut diamonds — one for every minute in an hour.

Cartier’s Bejeweled Animals

As the jeweler kings and king of jewelers, is there any surprise that Cartier appears in the list of best new jewelry watches from Watches & Wonders every year? So much of what the maison creates toes the line between time and jewelry piece, while invoking beloved motifs known to Cartier such as the panther and all manner of fauna.

In previous years Cartier showcased incredible finesse and craftsmanship through designs like the phenomenally creative Coussin de Cartier, as well as fresh yet familiar pieces including Maillon de Cartier and Clash [Un]limited. In 2024, the maison moves to update its vibrant menagerie with a range of animal themes, playing with figurative as well as abstract interpretations as it goes.

Starting with a trio of bejewelled animal themed watches, Cartier presents a sculptural take on some of its favorite motifs. Naturally the panther arrives first, with the Panther Jewellery Watch crafted in white gold, its bracelet encircling the wrist with a lovely crisscross pattern.

There is no clasp in the conventional sense here, as the head of the panther is the clasp. Pressing on it allows the panther to open its jaw and release the hinge — certainly a most adorable gesture that makes putting on and taking it off all the more pleasurable.

Likewise, the Crocodile Jewellery Watch and Tiger Jewellery Watch operates in the same manner. But where the Panther is mainly set in diamonds with just a sprinkling of blue sapphires around its head, emerald eyes and black onyx for the nose, the Crocodile combines diamonds with deep green emeralds, and the Tiger proffers a combination of black spinels, spessartite garnets, yellow and orange sapphires and some white diamonds adding more visual spectacle.

Along with these three sculptural jewelry clasp watches, Cartier has also unleashed another set of jewelry watches with larger-than-life animal theme designs. The first three evoke a crocodile motif where the reptile’s powerful form appears to leap out of the timepiece with its tail thrashing from behind.

Three gem-set versions provide rather different stylistic takes, from the verdant green and blue combination of tourmalines, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds, to the dramatically gradated blue hues of mother-of-pearl, sapphires and diamonds and enamel, to the iced-out purity of snow-set and brilliant cut diamonds.

The last piece in this series is the Panther Jewellery Watch fabulously crafted with a panther draped languorously on the case. Fully set with diamonds and buff-top black onyx shards, this piece has its case and dial completely covered with fragments of rhodolite garnets, spessartite garnets, onyx, yellow and white diamonds, as well as enamel, resembling a beautiful hand-woven tweed fabric of the most intricate variety.

Completing the jewelry novelties for Cartier is the Animal Jewellery Watch, a trio of fauna-inspired timepieces that encourages us to be creative and let our imagination go wild. Literally. These models take the abstract rather than figurative route and features dazzling stripes around the case, which is crafted full of volumes.

Undulating curves ebb and flow around its elegant form, wrapping around the dial as if to control or possess time. Is it a tiger? Is it a serpent? Or is it a mythical creature? Nobody knows, and it is up to the wearer to define.

Three versions provide a little differentiation, one in rose gold featuring rubies and diamonds, one in white gold featuring tsavorite garnets and diamonds, and one in yellow gold featuring black spinels and diamonds. All are accentuated with touches of rich black lacquer.

Patek Philippe’s Expert In-House Techniques

After its iconic sports watches and the innumerable high complication watches Patek Philippe excels at creating, the next frontier for many watch connoisseurs would be the gem-set and jewelry category. Last year the manufacture made a big splash with the full gem-set series which includes an Aquanaut minute repeater completely decked out in rainbow sapphires, along with a trio of diamond encrusted Nautiluses featuring emeralds, rubies or blue sapphires.

Patek Philippe’s gem-setting know-how continually impresses jewelry aficionados, particularly when it reveals stunning artistry and craftsmanship as seen in the utterly unique Flamme setting first introduced in 2016. Adding added sparkle and lucidity to the diamonds, this technique features round diamonds in staggered rows, with a groove manually cut in the space between the diamonds to amplify the inherent fire of each and every stone.

Continuing with the manufacture’s deep reverence for gem-setting as among the great Genevan traditions in craftsmanship, this year’s Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5268/461G-001 not only elevates the collection with a wonderfully exquisite rendition of this sporty feminine classic, it also showcases a novel approach to gem-setting that truly resonates with the core design of the Aquanaut.

Endowed with a combination of blue sapphires and white diamonds, baguette-cut stones and brilliant-cut stones, Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5268/461G-001 presents for the first time a white gold applique crafted in the timepiece’s emblematic grid dial. Thereafter, baguette-cut diamonds and blue sapphires are arranged in a chequerboard pattern, set into the white gold grid from underneath, sitting completely flush with the white gold.

According to the manufacture, this technique was accomplished in-house by Patek Philippe.

Snow-set diamonds bring an elegant juxtaposition to the grid and the surrounding baguette-cut sapphire indexes, while a baguette-cut sapphire bezel echo the blue rubber strap with grid motif.

In addition to this gem-setting savoir-faire, Patek Philippe also unveiled a new jewelry bracelet that appeals to men and women alike. The new Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001 is a picture of timeless elegance with the refined case shape crafted here in rose gold with an ebony-black dial.

But the star of the show in this watch has to be the new fine link bracelet made in an intricate chain style that evokes the glamor of the 50s.

Most impressively, Patek Philippe’s dedication to quality and luxury assures that unlike jewelry bracelets of the past, this one can be adjusted thanks to an engraved clasp with three adjustment notches making it remarkably easy to lengthen or shorten. This brilliant patented construction thus offers best of both worlds, and all taken in, this fabulous bracelet of the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001 took Patek Philippe 15 years to develop — and is worth every second.

Vacheron Constantin’s Transformative Jewelry

With such a vast array of specialties and métiers d’arts mastered within its manufacture, Vacheron Constantin’s gem-set and jewelry watches don’t always get their time in the sun. This year, however, one of the biggest highlights of its Watches & Wonders novelties is indeed a timepiece that transforms into a jewelry piece.

The Grand Lady Kalla reflects the manufacture’s rich heritage in jewelry and pendant watches, beginning in 1979 when the first Kalla timepiece was created. Fully paved with sumptuous diamonds it is a dazzling evening watch for the most sophisticated women of the era, and if you’d recall such watches as the Métiers d’arts lady Kalla Flame, Vacheron Constantin has undoubtedly revisited this eminent chapter in its history.

The 2024 creation takes inspiration from a 1980s piece, evoking a timeless glamor through a tasteful array of precious stones. It is also a nod to an innovative pendant watch made in 1924 which could be transformed into a brooch.

This Grand Lady Kalla, however, one-ups its predecessor by offering not one, not two but four different ways to wear a timepiece. As a necklace, as a pendant watch, as a bracelet and as a wristwatch.

Altogether, there are 131 diamonds set on the timepiece, and when combined with the sautoir crafted with Akoya pearls and onyx beads, a total of 268 stones including a superb GIA certified center stone of more than two carats.

Piaget’s Inimitable High Jewelry Standard

Piaget’s famous dual expertise in watch and jewelry crafting has been its core strength through the decades. With timepieces, watch connoisseurs love the Altiplano and Polo collections, particularly the new Polo 79 which repositioned Piaget favourably in the minds of leading watch collectors.

With jewelry, its eternally popular Possession and Rose collections are staples among the jewelry connoisseurs and luxury obsessed audiences. But it is when Piaget combines the two universes, creating high jewelry timepieces and gem-set jewelry timepieces, that it truly explores its unique identity in the luxury arena.

This year reveals a bumper crop of high jewelry creations by Piaget, some of which are familiar classics while others are fullest expressions of the maison’s imagination. We see the Altiplano Tourbillon High Jewelry which melds haute horlogerie with haute joaillerie.

The way those baguette cut diamonds emanate from the heart of the hours and minutes is such a sight to behold. Next, a pair of Aura high jewelry watches combining diamonds with rubies and pink sapphires in elegant gradated hues or fully saturated around the dial showcases Piaget’s gem-setting savoir-faire where metal prongs are all but invisible to the eye.

Another beloved jewelry category at Piaget is the cuff watch and this year the maison releases a fabulous dramatically intricate solid rose gold cuff where the gold envelops a dazzling black opal dial. Straddling the line between jewelry and art piece, this creation contains the absolute essence of Piaget.

Finally, the Swinging Sautoir Watch collection sees three new additions, from a subtle piece that’s also full of fine details to statement necklaces with ropes of braided gold accentuated with white opal and yellow sapphires, or a fantastical piece full of color and texture from malachite, turquoise, diamonds, aquamarines and yellow sapphires. The latter two are fully transformable, and can be worn with or without the watch as a pendant — or just as a watch on the wrist.

Chopard Extends Diamonds to Larger Sizes

The world of Chopard is a multifaceted one and that is also completely individualistic whether you’re looking at its high watchmaking line or its fine and high jewelry creations. Expressing the vision of co-president Caroline Scheufele, the bejewelled timepieces of Chopard contain its unique family spirit and reflect the incredible journey of the Chopard manufacture since the day the Scheufele family acquired this maison.

In other words, every design and every creation is deeply personal, whether you’re looking at an L.U.C high complication or an exquisite métiers d’art Imperiale or a dainty but iced out L’Heure du Diamant. As such this year’s gem-set and jewelry novelties from Chopard offer two different takes on how precious stones can dramatically change the look of a timepiece.

Take the Alpine Eagle as an example. This sport-chic timepiece has been making big waves ever since its introduction in 2019. But now Chopard presents two variations of this timepiece fully set with fiery white diamonds and even between the two there are striking differences in style.

The Alpine Eagle 33 Frozen has a charming aesthetic thanks to the juxtaposition of brilliant diamonds all over the dial and bracelet with baguette diamonds all over the bezel. It is a watch for successful young individuals who are not afraid to “go big or go home.”

Meanwhile the Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit leans completely into the captivating allure of full baguette diamonds, making it a phenomenal timepiece for the style savvy gentleman.

On the opposite side of the style spectrum, watches like the L’Heure du Diamant are practically a staple at Chopard and a daily essential for glamorous and go-getting women. This year’s collection offers verdant green malachite with diamonds or a more classical white mother-of-pearl on diamonds, all with an elegant octagonal bezel.

The mother-of-pearl models come with a beautiful grosgrain-style gold bracelet that could easily start a line of a fine jewelry collection once Chopard comes up with a cool name for it.

Finally, the crème de la crème here is the new Imperiale enhanced with métiers d’arts dials featuring lovely mother-of-pearl marquetry and a magnificent deep blue-green enamel. Graceful arabesques create a visual dynamic complete with white enamel, and used for the first time ever in a timepiece, padparadscha sapphires — you can admire the beautiful orangey-pink hues complementing the pink mother-of-pearl florals.

This exquisite haute horlogerie métiers d’art creation has a Chopard L.U.C movement, Caliber 96.17-C.

Chanel Is A High Fashion Jewelry House

What an incredibly rewarding Watches & Wonders it had been for Chanel haute horlogerie this year. The maison is truly coming into its own as it leans heavily on its identity as a fashion house, or more accurately speaking, a couture house.

For all its creations, whether fashion or accessories, watches or jewelry, Chanel draws deeply from its heritage and the life of Gabrielle Chanel for creative inspiration. 2024 sees the maison pull the covers off an exhilarating Chanel Couture O’Clock Capsule Collection which further segregates into two key areas: Mademoiselle’s Workshop and Mademoiselle’s Sewing Tools.

The first offers a unique glance at the workroom where Gabrielle Chanel creates her era-defining designs while the second references all the indispensable tools of the trade. Additionally, Chanel refreshes its watchmaking universe with a new Pink Edition and reveals yet another favorite motif of the Mademoiselle, the lion, in another capsule collection called The Time of the Lion, which saw two pieces released at Watches & Wonders, with more to follow in the months ahead.

One of the major talking points here was undoubtedly the Musical Clock Couture Workshop, an astounding table clock automaton with a music box that chimes to the rhythm of one of Gabrielle Chanel’s favorite songs, My Woman by Al Bowlly. This unique creation can be manually wound with a key made of 18K yellow gold and set with 229 diamonds which can be worn like a pendant on a sautoir necklace also made in yellow gold with diamonds.

Indeed, sautoir necklaces make up a big part of the narrative at Chanel, with no fewer than four of these delectable creations entering the picture, all exuding a playful, whimsical vibe. First up, the adorable Mademoiselle’s Workshop Bust Long Necklace Couture where mannequins take centerstage.

Crafted in 18k yellow gold and fully snow-set with diamonds, plus black lacquer trims, the pendant can be extended at the waist to reveal a hidden black lacquer dial with yellow gold hands.

Next, the Mademoiselle’s Sewing Tools series reveals a familiar design we’ve seen last year. The Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion Couture concept can take the form of a cuff, a ring or a long necklace.

However it’s worn, this piece features a starburst of 18K gold pins each adorned with a single cultured pearl all ensconced within a flawlessly transparent sapphire dome. The dial with a quilted motif is circled by a row of 120 brilliant cut diamonds along with 234 18K yellow gold beads.

This exquisite design is produced for Chanel by the FP Journe-owned Les Cadraniers de Genève.

Gabrielle Chanel’s workroom continues to inspire the Chanel Watch Creation Studio as we see the introduction of the Safety Pin Long Necklace Couture and the Thimble Long Necklace Couture which look exactly as adorable as they sound. Both pieces feature a miniature dial that can be discreetly tucked away or revealed as the wearer wishes, and are crafted in yellow gold fully paved with brilliant diamonds.

The fifth and final sautoir necklace released at Watches & Wonders is the Time of the Lion Seated Lion Long Necklace. Leo is of course Mademoiselle Chanel’s zodiac sign and ever a believer in astrology and superstition, she’s been known to draw strength and design inspiration from it.

As such the lion continually appears as a design motif in Chanel creations both past and present. This year, the majestic feline takes the form of a sautoir secret watch necklace and a beautiful Secret Cuff timepiece composed of gold, onyx and diamonds.

Moving on from sautoir necklaces, Chanel also created a number of statement cuffs this year, such as the aforementioned Pincushion and Time of the Lion creations, but there’s more. Inspired by a spool of thread, the Bobbin Cuff Couture is a vision crafted entirely in 18K yellow gold and festooned with brilliant cut diamonds emulating the interlocking lines of thread.

This is also a secret watch where the dial, covered in baguette diamonds, can be revealed by lifting the catch topped with a fabulous 17.51-carat emerald cut yellow sapphire.

Moving on from sautoir necklaces, Chanel also created a number of statement cuffs this year, such as the aforementioned Pincushion and Time of the Lion creations, but there’s more. Inspired by a spool of thread, the Bobbin Cuff Couture is a vision crafted entirely in 18K yellow gold and festooned with brilliant cut diamonds emulating the interlocking lines of thread.

This is also a secret watch where the dial, covered in baguette diamonds, can be revealed by lifting the catch topped with a fabulous 17.51-carat emerald cut yellow sapphire.

The Pink Edition capsule line proffers a total of four limited edition pieces including the J12 X-Ray Pink Edition Watch made in full sapphire hence the name X-Ray, and it is set with baguette cut pink sapphires for the bezel and hour markers, with Beige Gold trimmings to go along. The other model is decidedly less see-through but just as appealing with the high color contrast between white ceramic and pink sapphires. Caliber 3.1 powers this exquisite timepiece.