In the realm of haute horlogerie, Chopard’s L.U.C collection stands as a pinnacle of watchmaking craftsmanship and technical prowess. Chopard’s L.U.C watches are more than just instruments for measuring time; they are wearable works of art that embody the passion, skill, and innovation of the artisans at Chopard Manufacture in Geneva and Fleurier. From the meticulous finishing of movement components to the hand-crafted enamel dials, every aspect of these watches reflects a deep respect for horological traditions coupled with a forward-thinking approach to watchmaking.

We discover three exceptional timepieces from the L.U.C collection: the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green, and the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. All of them exemplify Chopard’s mastery in craftsmanship, precision, and aesthetic refinement.

The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier: A Symphony of Precision and Elegance

The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier represents the epitome of Chopard’s watchmaking expertise, combining exceptional craftsmanship with rigorous certification standards.

At the heart of the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier’s appeal is its innovative use of materials. The watch case, measuring a modest 39mm in diameter and a slim 8.92mm in thickness, is crafted from Chopard’s proprietary Lucent Steel. This remarkable alloy, produced with a minimum recycling rate of 80%, offers superior brilliance and durability compared to conventional stainless steel.

The case design itself is a testament to Chopard’s attention to detail. The elongated welded lugs flow seamlessly into the case, creating an elegant profile that sits comfortably on the wrist. The crown, adorned with the L.U.C logo, adds a touch of sophistication to the overall design.

The dial of the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier is a masterclass in understated elegance. The silver-toned sector-type dial features a sunburst satin-brushed center, surrounded by a circular satin-finished chapter ring. This design, reminiscent of the original 2005 L.U.C Qualité Fleurier model, pays homage to the brand’s heritage while maintaining a contemporary appeal.

The small seconds counter at 6 o’clock is finely snailed, adding depth and texture to the dial. The use of luminescent indications and syringe-type hands ensures excellent readability in all lighting conditions, while staying true to the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier’s classic aesthetic.

Powering the Qualité Fleurier is the L.U.C 96.09-L movement, an evolution of Chopard Manufacture’s first caliber. This ultra-thin mechanism, measuring just 3.30mm in thickness, is a marvel of engineering. It features Chopard Twin technology, which incorporates two stacked barrels wound by a bidirectional micro-rotor in 22-carat gold. This innovative design provides the watch with an impressive 65-hour power reserve.

Meticulous finishing, including Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges, reflects the high standards of craftsmanship upheld by Chopard’s artisans. This attention to detail extends beyond mere aesthetics; the movement’s precision has been rigorously tested and certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) over a 15-day period.

The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier’s exceptional qualities are not merely claims but are substantiated by one of the most comprehensive certification processes in the watchmaking industry. The Qualité Fleurier certification encompasses five stringent criteria, evaluating everything from the watch’s aesthetic appeal to its technical performance and reliability.

Beyond the COSC chronometer certification, the watch undergoes the Chronofiable protocol, a grueling three-week endurance test. This process subjects the timepiece to various environmental stresses, including temperature fluctuations, humidity, and magnetic fields. Additionally, the watch must withstand simulated wear conditions, including repeated crown manipulations and shock tests.

The final hurdle in the certification process is the Fleuritest, a sophisticated simulator that replicates 24 hours of wear on the wrist. To earn the Qualité Fleurier seal, the watch must maintain a rate variation between 0 and +5 seconds per day during this test, a testament to its exceptional precision and stability.

Philippe Dufour once famously stated that the “Fleurier seal, it is the most logical quality stamp, it tests the watch and not just the movement alone.”

Tech Specs: Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier (Ref. 168631-3001)

Movement: L.U.C 96.09-L, self-winding, 65-hour power reserve, COSC and QF certifications
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Case: 39mm × 8.92mm; Lucent steel; water-resistant to 30 meters
Dial: Silver-toned brass, sunburst satin-brushed center, circular satin-finish chapter ring
Strap: Brown calfskin strap with beige bridle stitching
Price: USD 20,300

The L.U.C XPS Forest Green: Where Tradition Meets Contemporary Elegance

The L.U.C XPS Forest Green represents a harmonious blend of classic watchmaking principles and contemporary design sensibilities.

The L.U.C XPS Forest Green features a 40mm case crafted from Chopard’s innovative Lucent Steel. The case’s dimensions are carefully considered, striking a perfect balance between presence and wearability. The case design is a nod to Chopard’s watchmaking legacy, with subtle curves and polished surfaces that catch the light beautifully. The thin profile of the watch, made possible by the ultra-thin movement within, adds to its elegant appearance and ensures comfort during extended wear.

The dial of the L.U.C XPS Forest Green stands out with its deep, rich forest green hue that is achieved through a meticulous PVD treatment, resulting in a satin-brushed finish that exudes depth and sophistication. This verdant backdrop serves as the perfect canvas for the watch’s sector-type layout, a design that bridges the gap between Art Deco aesthetics and Bauhaus functionality.

The sector-type dial, characterized by its concentric rings and radial markers, offers both visual intrigue and practical timekeeping benefits. The contrast between the dark green background and the off-white markers ensures excellent legibility, while the rhodium-plated Dauphine hands add a touch of classic refinement. This harmonious combination of colors and textures results in a dial that is both visually striking and eminently readable.

Powering the L.U.C XPS Forest Green is the L.U.C 96.12-L caliber, a testament to Chopard’s in-house watchmaking capabilities. This ultra-thin movement, measuring just 3.30mm in thickness, is a marvel of horological engineering. Despite its slim profile, the caliber boasts an impressive array of features that place it firmly in the realm of high-end watchmaking.

At the heart of the movement is a bidirectional 22-carat gold micro-rotor, a design choice that allows for efficient winding while maintaining the watch’s svelte profile. The Chopard Twin Technology, featuring two stacked barrels, provides a generous 65-hour power reserve.

The movement’s finishing is exemplary, with Côtes de Genève decoration adorning the bridges and meticulous beveling enhancing the overall aesthetic. This attention to detail extends to the movement’s performance, with the caliber earning chronometer certification from COSC. This certification guarantees that the watch maintains an average daily rate between -4 and +6 seconds, a testament to its exceptional precision.

Tech Specs: Chopard L.U.C XPS “Forest Green” (Ref. 168629-3001)

Movement: L.U.C 96.12-L, self-winding, 65-hour power reserve, COSC certified
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Case: 40mm × 7.20mm; Lucent steel; water-resistant to 30 meters
Dial: Forest Green brass dial with sunburst satin-brushed finish
Strap: Hand-sewn brown calfskin leather strap with ecru stitching
Price: USD 11,800

The L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25: A Masterpiece of Horological Innovation

The L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 represents the pinnacle of Chopard’s watchmaking expertise, combining a rare complication with exceptional power reserve and exquisite craftsmanship.

At the heart of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 lies its jumping hour complication, a feature highly prized by watch enthusiasts. This sophisticated mechanism displays the current hour through an aperture at 6 o’clock, with the hour digit changing instantaneously at the top of each hour. This dynamic display not only adds a touch of theatrical excitement to the act of timekeeping but also demonstrates Chopard’s mastery of complex watchmaking techniques.

The placement of the hour aperture at 6 o’clock is a thoughtful design choice, ensuring that the minute hand does not obscure the hour display during its rotation. This attention to detail enhances the watch’s functionality and user experience, a hallmark of Chopard’s design philosophy.

What sets the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 apart from other jumping hour watches is its exceptional power reserve, made possible by Chopard’s proprietary Quattro technology. This innovative system employs four stacked and series-coupled barrels, providing the watch with a long power reserve of up to 190 hours, or nearly eight days.

This extended power reserve is particularly impressive given the energy-intensive nature of the jumping hour complication. The four barrels, which together contain almost two meters of mainspring, not only provide extended autonomy but also ensure more consistent energy delivery to the escapement. This results in improved timekeeping accuracy throughout the watch’s operating period, a testament to Chopard’s commitment to both innovation and precision.

The dial of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 showcases the skills of Chopard Manufacture’s in-house enamel artisans. Crafted from a base of ethical 18-carat white gold, the dial undergoes the painstaking process of Grand Feu enameling, resulting in a deep, lustrous black surface of unparalleled quality.

The Grand Feu enameling process involves multiple firings at temperatures exceeding 800°C, followed by careful polishing to achieve a perfect, glossy finish. The use of black enamel presents a particular challenge, as any imperfection becomes immediately apparent under varying light conditions. The flawless execution of this technique on the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 is a testament to the skill and patience of Chopard’s artisans.

The stark contrast between the black enamel dial and the white Arabic numerals of the hour disc creates a striking visual impact, enhancing legibility while maintaining an air of understated elegance. This harmonious blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern design sensibilities exemplifies Chopard’s approach to contemporary haute horlogerie.

Powering the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 is the L.U.C 98.06-L movement, a hand-wound caliber with remarkably slim profile, measuring just 4.85mm in thickness. The movement incorporates several high-end watchmaking features that contribute to its exceptional performance and reliability. These include a balance spring with a Phillips terminal curve, which ensures consistent isochronism throughout the power reserve, and a swan neck regulator for precise adjustment of the balance frequency. Visible through the transparent caseback, the movement is a visual treat, with bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève decoration and meticulous hand-beveling.

The exceptional craftsmanship and technical excellence of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 are recognized by its certification with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal. This coveted quality hallmark is awarded only to a select few timepieces that meet stringent criteria for both aesthetic finishing and technical performance.

Tech Specs: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 (Ref. 161977-1001)

Movement: L.U.C 98.06-L, manual winding, 192-hour power reserve, Poinçon de Genève seal
Functions: Instantaneous jumping hours, Dauphine-fusée style minutes hand minutes, power reserve
Case: 40mm × 10.30mm; Ethical 18-carat white gold; water-resistant to 50 meters
Dial: Grand Feu black enamel dial
Strap: Hand-sewn matt black alligator leather strap
Price: USD 50,200
Availability: Limited to 100 pieces

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