In the fast-paced world of luxury watches, watch fairs have historically played a crucial role in connecting industry players, collectors, and enthusiasts. For decades, these events were the primary platform where brands showcase their latest creations and innovations. But not too long ago, many — including myself — believed the traditional watch fair had reached its twilight. The digital revolution, along with rising costs and changing consumer habits, seemed to have rendered these gatherings obsolete. Indeed, the collapse of Baselworld after a century of existence, when it was once the world’s leading watch fair, appeared to confirm this sentiment. Yet somehow, we are seeing more watch fairs in 2024 than any other year before. Why is that?

The watch industry is seeing a surprising shift. After being forced to go virtual during the pandemic, there is a renewed interest in physical events post-COVID. People are craving in-person connections, tactile experiences, and that sense of community which can only be found at watch fairs. Watches & Wonders Geneva has stepped in to fill the void left by Baselworld, along with more regular, localized events like SIAR in Mexico; Inhorgenta in Munich or Dubai Watch Week, but we are still far away from the monster-sized event held every year in Basel.

At its peak, Baselworld reunited more than 1,500 exhibitors including jewelry brands, and still managed a staggering 500 brands for its last edition in 2019. Compare this with the 54 brands this year at Watches & Wonders, although 60 brands are planning to exhibit in 2025. And with new smaller shows like IAM Watch and Milano Watch Week emerging this October, we find ourselves asking the question: What does the future of watch fairs look like?

The Fall of Baselworld and the Rise of Digital

When Baselworld officially closed its doors in 2022 (after two cancelled editions as a result of the pandemic), many saw it as the inevitable end of an era. For over a century, Baselworld had been the heartbeat of the global watch industry, attracting major brands, independent watchmakers, retailers and media from all over the world. Yet, years of rising exhibitor fees, dwindling foot traffic, and internal discontent from prominent brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and the Swatch Group signaled that Baselworld had lost touch with the industry it once served.

Moreover, during the pandemic, when in-person events became impossible, watch brands quickly pivoted to digital launches, live-streamed presentations, and virtual showrooms. Digital platforms offered flexibility, cost savings, and the ability to reach a global audience from the comfort of one’s office. Many — including myself — thought this would become the new normal for the watch world. Because why go back to expensive physical events when online options seemed more efficient?

Post-COVID: The Revival of Physical Encounters

However, as the world slowly emerged from the pandemic, something unexpected happened. The demand for in-person gatherings didn’t just return — it surged. Despite the convenience proffered by digital events, the experience of physically handling a timepiece, examining its details, and feeling its craftsmanship in person simply cannot be replicated online. The luxury watch industry, where heritage, tactile quality, and emotional connections are so important, thrives on these physical interactions.

This shift in sentiment has led to the revival of physical watch fairs, spearheaded by events like Watches & Wonders in Geneva. Having grown in scale and significance, Watches & Wonders has now taken over as the premier global watch fair, attracting the who’s who of the entire industry. With a hybrid model that integrates both in-person and digital elements, it manages to cater to a global audience while offering the irreplaceable experience of seeing watches up close.

Beyond Geneva: The Rise of Local and Boutique Events

While Watches & Wonders now leads the charge as the industry’s flagship event, there is also a growing trend towards smaller, more localized watch fairs. Events like the Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) in Mexico and Dubai Watch Week are a new breed of watch fairs — smaller, more intimate, and often focused on specific markets or themes. The interesting difference is that SIAR is biennial and commercial, meaning that it is meant to be a marketplace fulfilling both B2B and B2C needs, whereas Dubai Watch Week is biennial and non-commercial, focused on being a promotional and educational platform.

Another interesting development is also the creation of spin-off events like what Watches & Wonders has done recently in Shanghai or the Dubai Watch Week pop up soon to be staged in Hong Kong. IAM Watch in Singapore and Italy’s Milano Watch Week are two new watch fairs in 2024. All these initiatives are undoubtedly positive to promote the image of an industry that is pushing for more proximity with its end customers, but they are also mainly targeting niche brands and are not immediately relevant to institutional brands. I would dare to say that a strong institutional brand is better off doing its own events where the attention of the invitees is completely focused on one product novelty and brand message.

These boutique events are finding success by catering to regional audiences and offering a more personal, curated experience. SIAR, for example, has become a must-attend event in Latin America, providing collectors in that region direct access to top brands and independent watchmakers without the need to travel to Europe or the U.S. Similarly, Dubai Watch Week taps into the UAE’s rich horological culture, combining watch presentations with lifestyle elements such as art, design and fashion.

These local fairs are thriving because they fill a niche that large global events often overlook: a more personalized, community-driven experience that allows brands to connect with audiences in specific markets.

By scaling down and focusing on unique regional needs, these fairs offer an experience that complements the grandeur of larger events like Watches & Wonders.

Does Geneva actually need two yearly watch events ?

Due to Covid and the cancellation of Baselworld, the CEO of Bulgari, Mr. Jean-Christophe Babin, had the idea of creating a less formal event which won over the support of Breitling followed by independent brands such as MB&F and H. Moser who quickly decided to join. Taking place annually at the end of August, after the infamous “watchmakers’ holidays” which plunges an entire industry into hibernation for at least 1 month, sometimes even longer, Geneva Watch Days sees different brands exhibiting in hotel suites. Even though it’s less an event for the trade with very few retailers attending, many collectors all too happy to gather with friends to see some product novelties.

So what does the future hold? As the industry continues to evolve, it’s clear that the future of watch fairs is likely to be a blend of the grand and the intimate, the global and the local. Here’s what we can expect:

Watches & Wonders as the global Leader and anchor of the Swiss watch industry

Watches & Wonders Geneva has firmly established itself as the world’s leading watch fair, and its importance will likely grow. It provides a massive stage for the world’s biggest brands to showcase their latest innovations and collections to an international audience. Its hybrid format, combining in-person attendance with digital access, ensures that the event can reach beyond the confines of Geneva, engaging a global audience.

A very positive path taken by Watches & Wonders is that is has created a city-wide event where events are happening all over the town, and Geneva is conveniently small so that you can easily walk around to visit brands which are not officially exhibiting at the Palexpo. The very unique and strong point of Geneva is the strength of its fair infrastructure, i.e. Palexpo being situated just next to an international airport, a train station, an easy connectivity to the city center with a seven-minute train ride and a highway running just below the exhibition halls.

Even though the organization complains that many brands which are not officially exhibiting try to grab a free ride, we shall mention the fact that “Time to Watches” which is the smaller event for micro and niche brands will be just next door in 2025 exhibiting ca. 50 brands.

I don’t expect Watches & Wonders to become as big as Baselworld once upon a time was, but from today’s 60 brands, I think there is room to grow the event to 200 brands which would make the event more interesting and less elitist. All said, the Watches & Wonders management and its board composed of the main players of the Swiss watch industry such as Rolex, Richemont, LVMH, Patek Philippe and Chopard, deserves full credit to grow the event at a reasonable pace and trying to keep the necessary exhibiting budgets at accessible levels.

Watch Fairs in 2024: The Growth of Local Fairs

Regional fairs like SIAR in Mexico, Inhorgent in Munich or Dubai Watch Week will continue to grow in prominence, providing brands with a platform to connect more deeply with local markets. These smaller events offer a more intimate setting, where attendees can engage directly with watchmakers and discover new, often independent brands that may not feature as prominently in larger, global events. This personalized approach is particularly appealing to younger collectors, who are increasingly looking for authentic, meaningful experiences.

More Specialized Fairs

As the watch community diversifies, we may see the rise of more specialized fairs that cater to specific niches within the industry. For example, a fair dedicated to vintage watches, exclusively independent brands, or sustainable watchmaking practices. These would be excellent platforms for enthusiasts who are deeply passionate about particular aspects of horology.

One good example is the ReLuxury fair in Paris, as an exhibition focusing on one very important topic for the luxury industry, re- and upcycling luxury goods. A subject of limited attention by the major luxury brands until recently, the second life of any luxury good needs to be managed by the brands themselves or partners dedicated to this important task.

The second life of any luxury good needs to be managed by the brands themselves or partners dedicated to this important task.

A Hybrid Future

Digital tools developed during the pandemic will not disappear. Most watch fairs in 2024 and beyond will likely adopt a hybrid approach, allowing those unable to attend in person to engage with the event virtually. This is particularly important for luxury brands that want to maintain a global presence while keeping costs under control. The key will be finding the right balance between the tactile allure of physical encounters and the accessibility of digital platforms.

But there are limits to designing digital experiences to be as efficient as in-person events. Very few CEOs or creative directors are able to manage the codes of online communication to the level required, and seeing some of the interviews done for the digital editions of Watches & Wonders, one gets an idea of how negatively a brand’s image can be impacted when things go awry. But digital content can certainly help to spread knowledge and enthusiasm for products and brands.

A New Era for Watch Fairs

Watch fairs, once deemed obsolete, have found new life in a post-COVID world. While the pandemic forced the industry to embrace digital alternatives, it also reminded us of the importance of human connection and the irreplaceable experience of seeing, touching, and trying on watches in person.

So the future of watch fairs looks to be a harmonious blend of large-scale international exhibitions and smaller, more tailored events that bring brands closer to their regional audiences.

In a world where digital and physical experiences coexist, watch fairs are once again a vital part of the industry, offering the magic of in-person encounters that no screen can replicate. Ultimately, the winner might be the one who manages to create a brand and an engaged community that can then travel around the world and incarnate a certain status of legitimacy as the watch community hub around the world, and that could well be Watches & Wonders.

Where Watches & Wonders could improve, though, is the conviviality of the event, because if there is one thing that anyone who has ever attended Baselworld dearly misses, it’s certainly the many informal yet de rigueur happy hours enjoyed under the famous “Trou de Bâle.”