After 15 years of covering the watch industry extensively, you’d think I’d feel at home. Here’s the truth: the watch world still doesn’t quite know what to do with women. Our taste, our technical insight, even our voice in the conversation, it all feels second-guessed, like we’re visiting someone else’s club. It’s more subtle than it was a decade ago, sure, but the undercurrent is still there, quietly framing what’s ‘for us’ and what isn’t. So, when three years ago, three women I admire — Suzanne Wong, who can talk horology with the depth and precision of a watchmaker, PR dynamo Laetitia Hirschy and Nathalie Veysset, strategy consultant and founder of the community-driven Communiteezer — teamed up to launch the first community dedicated to amplifying women’s voices in watches, I was thrilled. Here was a platform giving women in this space a collective, global voice, finally allowing us to share what it feels like to navigate a hobby that’s both endlessly alluring and — let’s be real — a little too judgmental about women on the inside. It was long overdue and, frankly, game-changing.

If you had to pick one game-changing moment in the world of online communities, it’s hard to argue against the rise of Watch Femme. What started as a platform for women to freely talk watches has blossomed into a movement: championing gender-neutral timepieces, female empowerment, mentoring, and much more. This year, Watch Femme has taken things to the next level by partnering with Deloitte to publish a ‘Spotlight on the Female Market.’ The study, conducted through surveys and interviews with industry leaders, retailers, and collectors between August and September 2024, reveals a few encouraging insights but also highlights a concerning reality: the watch industry seems stuck in a cycle that’s proving hard to break. As sales dip worldwide, it’s clear that a fresh approach to engaging women is overdue but without women in positions of influence to drive that change, can we really expect any progress?

“We established Watch Femme in 2021, so we’ve been around for three years. That sounds like a fair amount of time, but three years is a blink of an eye in the watch world. We tend to be wary of rapid change — in this industry, changes that happen too quickly tend not to stick, and you can see that in how the industry itself is structured. Also, I would hesitate to say that Watch Femme is here to change things, although we ardently want to see change take place. Instead, I’d say that we provide something of a touchpoint for people who want to see greater representation for women in the watch world. Not the change itself, but a conduit for change, if you know what I mean,” says says Suzanne Wong, co-founder, Watch Femme.

“The fact that an organization like Watch Femme matters, because there are lots of people out there who believe that women can bring so much more to watches — as consumers as well as part of the industry. Knowing that you’re not alone in your convictions is a powerful motivating force for a lot of us. Things may not look very different from three years ago, but they feel different.”

The most comprehensive effort yet to explore the world of female watch consumers, this report combines insights from Deloitte’s survey of 6,000 general consumers in Switzerland and key export markets, alongside Watch Femme’s survey of 107 consumers and industry professionals across 13 countries including Canada, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, India, Italy, Malaysia, Switzerland, Sweden, Singapore, the United Kingdom and the United States.

“I hope our report has managed to establish that there are no real answers to the question of what women want in a timepiece. It’s an impossible question to answer, because you’re attempting to make generalisations about half the world’s population. The same woman can have both Air Jordans and Christian Louboutins in her shoe collection, both baggy jeans and cocktail dresses in her wardrobe. We should assume that her taste in watches is equally broad. What readers will find in our report are the insights that allow them to effectively engage with female watch consumers, no matter the category or style of watch,” says Wong.

Here are the top takeaways from the report.

Evolving Design Preferences: Gender-Free, Vintage, and Mechanical Watches

The watch world is in flux, with more women gravitating toward gender-free and vintage designs. In 2022, 44% of female consumers preferred women-specific watches, while 26% leaned toward gender-free styles. Markets like Hong Kong (42%) and Japan and Italy (30% each) are embracing these versatile, unisex pieces that feel both modern and liberating. “I do think that, by default, all watches are gender-neutral,” observes Brynn Wallner, founder of Dimepiece.

“However, I do feel as though many brands have used the ‘unisex’ label as somewhat of a ‘get out of jail free’ card. By labeling all watches unisex — even the ones that feel very intentionally designed for one singular demographic (i.e. men) — some brands may deem designing watches for women insignificant and irrelevant. Why bother designing intentionally for a woman if, technically, they can wear the man’s watch? I’m all for genderless dressing, but do not want women (and more femme-leaning clients) to be marginalized in the design conversations.”

Women are also driving demand for mechanical complications tailored to smaller wrists, with Audemars Piguet’s CEO, Ilaria Resta, projecting that women could make up 45% of mechanical watch buyers by 2030. “More women are approaching us for mechanical watches. The industry has an interesting challenge for miniaturization,” Resta says in the report.

Historically, women have faced an unspoken judgment for valuing design over technical complexity, as if appreciating aesthetics could undermine their understanding of horology. But today, female collectors show that they value both style and substance in their timepieces, blending a keen eye for design with a respect for craftsmanship. As New York-based attorney and collector H. Jane Chon puts it, “I love certain pieces solely for design and others solely for mechanics. A piece that combines both beautifully is a rarer thing. And yes, I do believe women are judged negatively for choosing solely on design.”

For Chon, design — including the case, dial layout, and movement construction — has always played a key role in her choices. “I don’t believe design and mechanical prowess are mutually exclusive, although more often than not one has priority. Today, I find myself drawn more to smaller and timeless designs, but not exclusively. Good design is good design, regardless of size or heft.”

Chon’s view reflects an evolving stance among women collectors who want watches that merge aesthetics with mechanics, urging the industry to recognize their nuanced tastes. “Brands should go beyond adding gemstones to existing men’s models. Introducing original designs that reflect women’s tastes and lifestyles, while keeping the mechanical complexity intact, can resonate more deeply,” says Akriti Madan, head of marketing and communications at Johnson & Co., India.

“By engaging respected female figures and brand ambassadors who value craftsmanship, brands can shift perceptions, creating limited editions inspired by historical female icons or collaborations with female artists, making each piece feel uniquely collectible.”

Watches as Fashion Accessories and Statement Pieces

Over the past year, Taylor Swift hasn’t just topped the music charts — she’s reshaped watch style. At the Grammys, she captivated onlookers with a daring twist on a classic accessory: a vintage Concord timepiece reimagined as a choker. Wrapped in 300 carats of diamonds by Lorraine Schwartz, Swift’s piece elevated red carpet glamour and launched the watch choker trend into the mainstream. While Rihanna and Emma Chamberlain sparked this trend last year, Swift’s rendition set it ablaze, inspiring Swifties and style aficionados alike.

From ring watches to necklaces, watches are making waves in fashion and social media. Lana Del Rey wore Chanel’s Première Sound as a necklace, celebrating how adaptable watches can be. “One cannot deny the power of celebrity, and I do feel like, since smaller watches have come more into favor for both men and women alike, brands have started reprioritizing these in not only design meetings but also in the marketing and PR conversations,” says Wallner, founder of Dimepiece. “Take Paul Mescal wearing a teeny tiny Cartier Baignoire, for example. It’s exciting to see brand ambassadors wearing watches that disrupt modern norms — after all, guys used to wear the Baignoire in the ’60s and ’70s.”

As Wallner emphasizes, brands would benefit from tapping into design expertise beyond the watch industry. “Hire more female designers and consultants … Hire me!” she quips, underscoring the need for perspectives that connect to broader lifestyle trends. Jewelry-watch hybrids like those from Cartier and Bulgari excel in creating pieces that embrace both artistry and function, she notes. “They’re able to apply their jeweler’s know-how to craft beautifully wearable bracelet-style watches” — a feat that watch-only brands sometimes struggle to replicate.

Smartwatches and the Rise of Functional Technology

The Deloitte report reveals that smartwatches have captured the wrists of younger generations, with 40% of Millennial women and 33% of Gen Z favoring these digital devices. Interestingly, 30% of Gen Z women don’t wear watches at all, compared to just 16% of Millennials. While countries like China and India see a blend of smartwatch and mechanical preferences, smartwatches reign in Hong Kong, Singapore, and Europe. Yet, in the U.S., Japan, and Switzerland, many younger women skip watches entirely, signaling an evolving relationship with timepieces. With fewer than one in five young women choosing classic watches, the watch world has a fresh opportunity — how can they capture the interest of the next generation of female collectors?

“When Apple first presented their connected watch in 2015, it was speculated that it could help bring younger generations to traditional watches, as they’d get used to consulting a wrist-worn device instead of reaching for their phones. This logic still holds, and although women currently prefer smartwatches, it presents an opportunity for conversion with the right product and environment,” says Wong.

“Consumers are sensitive to environmental cues, especially women. If we want more women in fine watchmaking, we need to make it an attractive space for them. We tried not to be too prescriptive in the report, because it’s not necessarily our place to tell the watch industry how to engage with their female audience. However, we’ve identified several entry points for high-quality engagement with female watch consumers,” she says.

Underrepresentation and Pay Disparity in the Watch Industry

In Swiss watchmaking, women represent about 43% of the workforce, yet they remain underrepresented in leadership roles, and the gender pay gap persists — women earn 24.8% less than men, according to Unia data. Despite this, there’s hope on the horizon as more women break through to senior positions. “It’s cool to see more women in leadership — like Ilaria, Ginny at Audemars Piguet, and Catherine at Jaeger-LeCoultre. It’s a start, and I hope it paves the way for others,” says Wallner. This shift hints at a slow but promising evolution in the industry.

The Influence of Brand, Price Sensitivity, and Rethinking Advertising

When it comes to brand loyalty, women in India (68%) and China (60%) mean business, keeping reputation at the top of their checklist. But globally? It’s all about the look, with 55% of Gen Z saying if it’s not pretty, they’re not interested. “In India, women love watches that blend luxury, status, and versatility. Think icons like the Cartier Tank or Chopard Happy Sport,” says Akriti Madan. She adds that “watches with a jewelry-like aesthetic — think precious stones, mother-of-pearl dials, or elegant metal bracelets — are highly appealing to Indian women.

“They want pieces that pair effortlessly with both ethnic wear and modern outfits. Many women in India purchase jewelry as an investment or heirloom. By positioning a luxury watch as a similar investment — something that can be passed down through generations — it could gain that same sense of reverence.”

Meanwhile, 40% of women globally prefer watches under $5,000, though 85% feel current ads don’t resonate with them, and 34% — especially younger women — would rather see less rigid gendered marketing.