This is a story dating back to an era that might be hard to imagine for anyone younger than 50 years old. When conventional watches had just survived the Quartz Crisis, there were few people daring enough to launch a new watch brand. In 1986, a young watchmaker from Geneva set out to redefine what watchmaking should be about by presenting a tourbillon with jumping hours, which was signed “Franck Genève,” creating a buzz at the Basel Fair.

In an era where conventionality often reigned supreme, this watchmaker dared to disturb the status quo and redefine the parameters of haute horlogerie. The young watchmaker, Franck Muller, was about to question the codes set by the elite league of traditional watchmaking brands.

Franck Muller’s colorful rebellion 

Franck Muller, the bold and audacious brand that emerged in the 1990s, captured the imagination of an elite clientele, creating timepieces that would transcend mere functionality and morph into extraordinary works of art. The iconic Cintrée Curvex stands out as a symbol of this revolutionary spirit — a resplendent and colorful watch that became an OVNI (objet volant non identifié) in a niche occupied by the muted tones of high-end 1980s watchmaking. 

While many luxury brands entrenched themselves in demure designs, Franck Muller unleashed a riot of colors and sizes upon the watch world. The Cintrée Curvex, with its bold curves and vibrant dials, was an instant game-changer; it challenged the established norms of watch aesthetics and redefined the possibilities of high-end timepieces. By juxtaposing innovative design with complications, Franck Muller captured the attention of collectors and enthusiasts alike, proving that a luxury watch could be as much about audacity and flair as it is about intricate engineering.

This radical approach has not only made Franck Muller a household name in the world of haute horlogerie, but it has also carved out a unique niche for the brand, setting a benchmark for creativity amidst a backdrop of traditionalism. The brand’s ability to push boundaries in both visual appeal and technical prowess has made it a staple in the collections of discerning watch aficionados.

Franck Muller’s production facilities among the best in the business

Behind the brilliant colors and avant-garde designs lies another compelling aspect of Franck Muller — the extent of vertical integration within the manufacture. By controlling a vast majority of the production process, from the initial concept through to the assembly of each timepiece, Franck Muller has positioned itself as one of the most vertically integrated brands in the Swiss watch industry. This commitment to in-house craftsmanship not only elevates the brand’s credibility, but also ensures consistent quality across its entire range.

Owning its production processes allows Franck Muller to innovate freely and respond to market demands with an agility that many competitors cannot match. In a landscape where outsourcing is common, Franck Muller’s dedication to mastery preserves the authenticity of each watch, embodying the spirit of traditional Swiss watchmaking while remaining uniquely contemporary. 

I had recently the privilege to visit the Franck Muller manufactory, and I was mesmerized by the extent of verticalization, which you can find in very few places in the whole Swiss watch industry. Having visited dozens of ateliers and production facilities, I dare say that Franck Muller is probably amongst the five most integrated Swiss-made watch brands. You may dislike the aesthetics of the products or the sometimes “in-your-face” communication, but the brand has definitely managed to establish a very strong identity and design language, which has inspired others to be more creative. Beyond any doubt, when Richard Mille started his own brand a decade later, he got some inspiration from Franck Muller, both for the oversized watches and the use of colors, materials and mechanical complications.

When Franck met Vartan

All success stories in the watchmaking industry have been the result of an association of talents and when Franck Muller, the young and talented watchmaker, crossed paths with Vartan Sirmakes, a successful gem-setter, they immediately connected on the values of artisanship. The magic of successful business relationships comes from having seemingly opposing personality types that are able to work together in harmony; on one side, the dreamer and showman, and on the other, the businessman avoiding the limelight. The success of the Franck Muller brand came from the unlikely mixture of creativity and sound business principles. While Franck was looking for mechanical mastery, Vartan was in search of manufacturing efficiency. 

Besides being a talented watchmaker, Franck Muller was also gifted with some showman talents which are very useful to entertain and finally sell watches to wealthy people. Meanwhile, Vartan Sirmakes was back home in Geneva making sure that the production was following a ever-growing demand triggered by a buzz before even social media existed. 

When you get a chance to visit the premises of the manufacture of Franck Muller Watchland, you will get an idea of what it takes to become a fully integrated watch manufacture. I was lucky enough to have visited dozens of ateliers and manufactures over the last decades, but I have rarely seen such an extensive production facility dedicated to one brand. You can feel that the product development is really driven by passion, rather than by intricate marketing studies. This is one of the brand’s strengths — the passion fueling the product creations.

Having said that, it might also be a tricky path to explore all new ideas and never refuse any request for product customization. While touring the premises of Franck Muller Watchland, my old habits as a supply chain manager in a previous life made me question the product variety, the consequences for the supply chain and, more importantly, the aftersales service. But to be honest, I have seldom heard people complain about technical problems with a Franck Muller watch.

Defying the conventional rules of branding

The commercial success of the brand took off when some very well-known football players and coaches started to wear Franck Muller watches. Being easily recognizable, they attracted the interest of a growing community of aficionados. At the beginning of the 1990s, Italy was the referential market to launch a new product or a new brand and, without paying for any brand testimonials or extravagant communication campaigns, Franck Muller quickly became the darling of VIPs around the world. Once you have the showbiz and the sports stars wearing your watches, the magic kicks in and sales take off. 

We could add that this early success came before the era of the Internet and social media, and, in fact, the brand took a long time to go digital. It was not until the mid-2000s that the brand finally launched its first website. You don’t sense that a communication strategy was being applied, which is even more surprising when you consider the fact that the brand had invented a genius tagline for itself: “Master of Complications.” This proved to be the greatest positive outcome of its product strategy, as the brand has always stuck to its promise of being the mastermind of mechanical complications. Indeed, Franck Muller bears a history of World Premieres with the first triple-axis tourbillon and an ultra high complication watch, the Aeternitas Mega, boasting no less than 36 complications. 

But for me, the epitome of Franck Muller’s creativity is the Crazy Hours. In fact, this complication is not only a unique selling point, but also the hero product of the brand. The hour hand is guided by a jumping hour mechanism that allows it to jump in an apparently totally random order, whilst the minute hand follows a typical 60-minute cycle. It is a playful complication that makes the time indication much more fun while playing with the boundaries of high-end watchmaking.

It goes without saying that Franck Muller does not really follow the path of the main watch brands during the annual exhibitions in the springtime. The brand started quite conventionally at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH, the ancestor of Watches and Wonders), but tensions soon arose with the Richemont Group brands, which didn’t really appreciate that the new and upcoming brand would have queues in front of its booth. There were also differences of opinions about how haute horlogerie should be defined and as the SIHH was meant to be the showcase for the Richemont Group, Franck Muller decided to leave and create its own show in 1998. Never one to shy away from making a strong statement, Franck Muller decided to call its own showcase the WPHH, or World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie, no less.

It’s all these episodes of provocation and testing the boundaries of the Swiss watchmaking establishment that I like the most about the original “enfant terrible” of our industry.

A need for Franck Muller to connect with the younger demographic

However, even amidst its extraordinary success, Franck Muller is faced with a contemporary challenge: connecting with younger demographics, especially Gen Z and millennials. Unlike many luxury brands that have leveraged social media to foster engagement and brand loyalty, Franck Muller has remained largely absent from the digital hype. The brand’s reluctance — or inability — to invest in marketing and social media outreach has rendered it virtually unnoticed by these new demographics that influence purchasing decisions in avant-garde ways.

 

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Despite this, Franck Muller continues to thrive financially, maintaining a position within the top 30 of the Morgan Stanley × LuxeConsult annual report for the watch industry. Its profitability stands as a testament to the affection of its established customer base — those who appreciate the brand’s history of innovation and are drawn to its artistic approach to watchmaking. Yet, without a strategy to engage younger consumers, the brand risks becoming an enigmatic relic rather than a relevant player in the luxury watch space.

What’s next for Franck Muller?

As Franck Muller embarks on its next chapter, the pursuit of a connection with Gen Z and millennials becomes critical. The brand’s storied history and distinct aesthetic offer a fantastic foundation upon which to build a modern narrative. If executed thoughtfully, the adoption of contemporary marketing strategies, particularly on social media platforms, could create a bridge to this new generation. 

The world of haute horlogerie may seem reticent to change, but Franck Muller’s audacity serves as a reminder that innovation and creativity can and should flourish side by side with tradition. The challenge lies in harnessing this spirit to resonate with a younger audience, creating an experience that invites them into the captivating world of colorful, bold timepieces that Franck Muller has so effortlessly perfected. 

In a market increasingly driven by relatability and narrative, Franck Muller has the potential to rediscover its place as a cultural touchstone, captivating not just established collectors, but also the next generation of watch enthusiasts eager to embrace the unconventional. The future of Franck Muller may rest within its ability to adapt while remaining true to its revolutionary identity. As the brand looks ahead, the key question remains: will it seize the opportunity to make its mark in a new era of watch lovers?