Fresh from Czapek & Cie’s special mirror-dial edition that was released last week, Franck Muller presents its own steely number for Sincere Fine Watches’ 70th Anniversary celebrations. The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition highlights the use of — as so named — Damascus Steel, a material that’s historic as it is artistic.

A technical masterpiece in Damascus steel

The name “Damascus steel” is often attributed to Damascus, the capital of modern-day Syria, and has its origins as far back as 300 BCE, when a material called wootz steel, a high-carbon alloy, became the foundation for the creation of true Damascus steel. While it was highly favored for its exceptional strength, Damascus steel’s distinctive trait is its wavy pattern often found on the blade. It was often used in decorative knives or historically, in weapons, especially swords, when the material was exported to the Middle East.

After the traditional method of producing Damascus steel began to disappear some time in the 17th century, “Damascus steel” is now often used to describe modern steel that mimics the appearance and some of the properties of the ancient material. Today, its composition is made from layering two different types of high-carbon steel.

With a Moh’s hardness of 5.5 to 6.3 (close to Titanium that rates 6 on the Scale), Damascus steel has since developed a high reputation for being tough and resistant to shattering. Of course the aforementioned aesthetic is what makes the material desirable these days — in fact, Franck Muller is an expert at working with the metal at this point. They’ve produced a running series in its Vanguard time-and-date models, including variations across the Racing (a sporty watch featuring a central seconds totalizer) and Skeleton lines.

For Sincere Fine Watches’ 70th Anniversary, Franck Muller’s use of the metal in this special Franck Muller Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition shows off the creative metallurgy composition in its own way. Damascus steel has been adopted for the case, skeletonized movement, crown, and buckle. The process involves cutting the steel from single blocks using in-house CNC machines where the striated patterns you see here, are revealed through an acid bath technique and are unique to each piece. The skeletonized movement undergoes the same acid bath, but with a timing so precise that even a few minutes could alter the structure, as explained by Franck Muller’s in-house artisans.

The metal composition is a blend of austenitic stainless steel — 316L and 304L — via powder metallurgy, which combines the desired strength and corrosion-resistant properties (the process is currently under an international patent). This fusion of fortitude can seemingly be reflective of the decades-long partnership between Sincere Fine Watches and Franck Muller; the use of Damascus steel here is symbolic, representing the enduring bond between the two brands. Since Franck Muller’s foundings in 1991, Sincere Fine Watches recognized its potential, integrating the brand into its portfolio therefore becoming the exclusive Southeast Asian distributor in 1992.

Each watch made is a unique offering for collectors

Unlike traditional steel, Damascus steel demands “exceptional polishing” to highlight its unique pattern. The skeletonized caliber MVT FM 1740-VS2 (which runs on a 7-day power reserve), features a range of finishing techniques: mirror polishing on the regulator assembly, beveling on the mainplate and bridges, diamond polishing on the sinks, and circular satin brushing on the wheels, all contributing to a play of light and shadow within the openworked architecture. It’s all framed by rose gold details that  include the flange, hands, side inserts, and crown cap.

The 28-piece Franck Muller Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is available at Sincere Fine Watches Boutiques, with a retail price of S$71,100 (including GST).

Tech Specs: Franck Muller Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Movement: Manual winding caliber MVT FM 1740-VS2; 7-day power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds
Case: 42.5mm x 52.7mm x 12.6mm; Damascus steel; water-resistant to 30m
Dial: Skeletonized Damascus steel
Strap: Black alligator leather strap with bronze stitching
Price: SGD 71,100
Availability: Limited to 28 pieces