When it comes to special editions, our philosophy has always been to make the watches we want to wear. But, at the same time, it is important that we tap into the authentic spirit of a brand or a model. With the 417, the project was very special because when we first broached the idea to Felix Wallner, Hanhart’s co-managing director, it didn’t exist in the brand’s line-up. Felix had seen the buzz that had built up around the original watches, and he could see that there was a strong desire from the collector’s community. So, amazingly, he agreed, and we began our 417 adventure that ended up taking several years.

But, of course, there was one area in which the new 417 was different from its ancestors. This was related to its case size. So, it was remarkable to me when I received a phone call from Felix Wallner to discuss a follow-up to our Bronze 417 and the first thing he said was, “Let’s do an all-new case that is identical in size to the vintage watches. Let’s do it in a case diameter of 39mm!” I loved this. Because here was the head of a watch brand proposing to go a more difficult, labor-intensive and execution. To me, this speaks volumes of the type of guys that run Hanhart: dudes with real integrity.

The Vintage Hanhart 417 Pilot’s Chronograph

For those of you interested in a little history of the 417, let’s go back in time to 1882 when one Johann A. Hanhart set up his eponymous brand in Diessenhofen, Switzerland. He relocated to Schwenningen in south Germany near the idyllic Black Forest in 1902, and by 1924, the Hanhart brand had gained a reputation for making highly precise yet affordable stopwatches. At the time, the chronograph complication was only available with a staggering price tag. Hanhart, seeing the popularity of competitive sports, wanted to democratize these timing devices, and he achieved great success as a result. In 1935, the company, helmed by Johann’s son, Wilhelm Julius Hanhart, added to its achievements the creation of a split seconds stopwatch. In 1938, Hanhart launched its first modern chronograph powered by the legendary caliber 40. This was a monopusher movement which was utilized to create watches for the German Luftwaffe and Navy. By 1939, officers in both these branches would wear chronographs typified by a thin fluted rotating bezel, and a large matte black dial with luminous cathedral hands and large luminous markers. Interestingly, from the beginning, these watches were made in both stainless steel and chrome-coated brass.

The most famous person to wear a Hanhart 417 was the “King of Cool” himself, Steve McQueen. How McQueen came to own his watch is something of a mystery. Though what is clear is that he had exemplary taste in everything from motorcycles, particularly Bud Ekins-tuned Triumphs and Nortons; to cars, such as the 1958 Porsche 356A 1600 Super Speedster, Ferrari 275 GTB4 and Jaguar XKSS; to bespoke suits, as seen in his collaboration with Douglas Hayward in the film The Thomas Crown Affair; to women, particularly Jacqueline Bisset, Candice Bergen and Ali MacGraw. It was said that on the set of Sam Peckinpah’s The Getaway, the attraction between McQueen and MacGraw was so palpable that it threatened to melt the celluloid as it ran through the camera gate. So, it was no surprise that he naturally gravitated to the ultra cool 417 (his watch is believed to be an ES), which he wore most frequently on a Bund or “fat strap” style bracelet.

It’s a funny coincidence. It was only after the prototype of our new Bronze 417 “Mark 2” was finished that I realized the beautiful brown dial reminded me of something. And that is Steve McQueen’s stunning metallic brown 1963 Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta Lusso which was purchased by his first wife, Neile Adams, and was his daily driver in Los Angeles. This has always been one of my favorite cars and the fact that it was Steve McQueen’s makes it, of course, even more mythical. Could this have been embedded in my subconscious while thinking of this dial? No — it was absolutely my 5970 that inspired it. But it is amusing that the colors of the car and dial are close.

Tech Specs

Hanhart 417 Chronograph Edition No. 2 “Copperhead” For Revolution & The Rake

Movement: Manual winding Sellita caliber SW510 M; 58-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, small seconds and bi-compax chronograph with 30-minute counter and central stop seconds
Case: 39mm; satin-polished bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Brown sunray; Super-LumiNova filled Arabic numerals and hands
Strap: Dark brown Bund-style calfskin with white stitching and leather underlay; bronze pin buckle featuring historical Hanhart logo
Price and availability: USD 2,050; limited edition of 200 pieces