Tudor’s highly promoted partnership with the French Navy received another addition to this popular sub-collection with the release of the new Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”, continuing the brand’s long association with the Marine Nationale.

Between 1956 and 1975 Tudor supplied French naval forces with timepieces. After the cessation of the initial collaboration, 46 years passed before the release of the hotly anticipated Pelagos FXD Marine Nationale in 2021. The impact of Tudor’s close collaboration with the Marine Nationale has resonated through the years. Many of Tudor’s most-missed references before the brand’s renaissance in 2009 were inspired by the classic models of the past, several of which were associated at various times with the Marine Nationale.

1956: Ref. 7922 & 7923

It all began with two references released in 1956 — reference 7922 and reference 7923 (both 37 mm in diameter). Tudor sent the 7922 and 7923 (both Oyster Prince Submariner models) to the Toulon-based Underwater Study and Research Group (Groupement d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.) in French) for testing. Water resistant to 100 meters, these robust and reliable watches impressed the commander of the G.E.R.S and they became the first official models of the Marine Nationale.

The 7922 had been developed two years earlier in 1954 with the 7923 following a year later. Although visually quite similar, there were two major differences between the first references of the Marine Nationale. The 7922 was automatic while the 7923 featured a manual wind movement (the ETA 1182). As such, the 7923 was thinner than the 7922. The manual model is a bit of a unicorn in the Tudor Submariner lineage as it is the only non-automatic Sub ever produced by the brand. Both models featured a small 6 mm crown. They were the last models to do so, as the crown would be enlarged to 8 mm with the release of the 7924 in 1958.

1958: Ref. 7924

The 7924 succeeded the 7922 and 7923 as the chosen watch of the Marine Nationale. As a result, the 7924 was nicknamed the “Big Crown” and is notable for being water resistant to 200 meters. 

However, despite the 7924 being the first model to feature the larger crown as standard, there were a few earlier prototypes of the 7922 developed for the French Navy. Interestingly (and a quirk that will no doubt be catnip for collectors of unusual watches), some of these early Big Crown 7922s were fitted with Rolex 6328 case backs, which had the 6328 reference on the inside of the case back struck through and 7922 engraved in a larger and thinner font beneath it. 

While Tudor claims the 7922 originated before the 7923 (which would at least make sense according to the ascending reference number), the serial numbers of these models hint at an alternate timeline. 

Several examples of the 7923 bearing serial numbers running from 217xxx to 218xxx, which is odd when one considers the serial range of the 7922 falls within 244xxx to 288xxx. One other specification that might suggest the 7923 was actually the first dive watch developed by Tudor is its manual movement, which would seem like a backward step from the 7922’s automatic caliber if the official timeline is accurate. 

If we flipped the release order and assumed the 7923 was in fact the first diver made by Rolex’s sister brand, the ensuing developments make a bit more sense. The 37mm 7923 with manual winding, 100 meters water resistance, and featuring the 6mm crown exclusively would be very naturally followed by the 6mm crown version of the automatic 7922, which would then be followed by the 8mm crown version with Rolex case backs, which would then be succeeded by the 7924 that made the Big Crown a permanent addition to the collection upon its debut in 1958.

1959-1960: Ref. 7928

One year later, Tudor released reference 7928, which prioritized ruggedness over sleekness with the introduction of crown guards to protect the protrusive winding button of the 7924. Multiple iterations followed and the 7928 would remain the favored watch of the Marine Nationale divers for ten years until the development of reference 7016.

1969: Ref. 7016

The 7016 saw the birth of the famous “Snowflake” dial configuration, so named because of the unusual shape of the hour hand. In addition to the broad, easily legible hour hand, the lume plots were changed from circles to squares with the support of the French Navy, which advocated for maximum readability underwater. Although it may seem like a stylistic choice alone, the square form of the hour markers enabled the application of more luminous material with the same diameter of index (just as a 33 mm square watch would wear much longer than its round counterpart due to the diagonal measurement coming in at 46 mm).

Five years after its debut, the 7016 became the first Tudor watch to actually be engraved “TUDOR M.N.”, making the earliest examples of this co-signed watch extremely sought-after by collectors.

1976: Ref. 9401

The following year, in 1975, reference 9401, which would become known colloquially as the “Tudor Blue” thanks to the dial and bezel color, emerged. It too was engraved with TUDOR M.N. and was issued in both the already-classic Snowflake dial configuration as well as a version utilizing triangular hour markers instead. This model enjoyed a long period of service, being delivered to the Marine Nationale until the 1980s and remaining in use all the way to the turn of the century. It was retired fifteen years ago, but many examples still grace the wrists of M.N. reservists and veteran service people. 

2024: Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”

This year, sees the Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”  (reference M2542G247NU-0002) join the family. At first glance, this handsome piece’s colorway is most reminiscent of the Tudor Pelagos LHD, which famously paired creamy luminous hour markers with color-matched text, red accents, and a roulette date wheel (with a pleasingly color-matched background). 

The creativity of the colorway isn’t all this piece has going for it from a visual perspective. While it has always been commonplace for Marine Nationale pieces to be ordered without a metal bracelet and, instead, worn on fabric straps, the use of this particular shade of military green (embellished by the super cool embroidered MN keeper) compliments the watch head’s color scheme perfectly. This is perfectly logical as red and green are complimentary colors, sitting directly opposite one another on a color wheel (just as blue and orange do). With neutral tones like black and cream in between these two shades, the overall effect is easy on the eye but still stark and masculine. This apparent contradiction likely comes down more to the cultural perception of the colors and their areas of application.

An olive-drab green webbing could be seen in absolute isolation and would still conjure thoughts of combat gear. A black watch head inevitably looks stealthy and aggressive alongside a case made of uncoated steel (or any other uncoated metal, for that matter). Red is a color associated with action. It is, by its nature, an assertive color and perfect for a watch designed for military power. 

The robustness of this piece is enhanced by the fixed (FXD) lugs paired with the high-strength webbing strap. Its legibility is paramount and was developed in partnership with a specialist unit of the French Navy, specializing in underwater navigation. Navigating underwater requires a detailed plan to be strictly followed, with changes in direction timed to the second. The broad, luminous ceramic 24-bezel can be used in conjunction with the minute hand to navigate in total darkness.

Additionally, this model features a GMT function, which is useful for operatives working all over the world in different time zones. As far as watch complications go, the GMT function remains one of the most useful for civilians, especially those who travel frequently or those who work remotely across one or more time boundaries.

Notably, Tudor communicates this function as “ZULU” time, which may be confusing for those unaware of military nomenclature. Zulu time (Z) is the same as Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) and Greenwich Meantime (GMT) but is simply the military’s preferred reference for the zero meridian.  

The Tudor Pelagos FXD “Zulu Time” is powered by the automatic manufacture caliber MT5652-U (which is COSC and METAS certified) and boasts a 65-hour power reserve. The watch case is 42 mm wide, 12.7 mm thick, has a 22 mm lug width, and is crafted from satin-brushed titanium. It is water resistant to 200 meters. As a clear statement of confidence in its wares, Tudor offers a five-year transferable guarantee with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required.

This model is available now online and via Tudor stockists worldwide. With a ticket price of just USD 4,625, this model sits around the middle of the Pelagos collection en masse. Thanks to the glittering reputation of the Pelagos line, this addition instantly becomes one of the strongest value propositions from a major brand active in the industry today.

Tech Specs: Tudor Pelagos FXD “Zulu Time”

Movement: Manufacture Calibre COSC-Certified MT5652-U; 65-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; second timezone
Case: 42mm × 12.7mm; grade 2 titanium; water-resistant to 200m
Dial: Black
Strap: Green fabric strap
Price: USD 4,625