Last year, LVMH revived the Daniel Roth brand with the introduction of the Tourbillon Souscription. This watch remained true to the vintage original, reference C187 from 1988, in both appearance and feel, while featuring a completely new movement. The original batch consisted of twenty pieces, all in yellow gold, each with a solid case back concealing the movement.

This year, the brand revisits the Tourbillon with a new version in rose gold, now featuring a see-through case back that reveals the in-house movement. The guilloché pattern on the dial has also been updated, along with refinements to the hour markers. 

Though the latest Tourbillon is not a limited edition, production is capped at 50 pieces per year, and this can be easily tracked because the serial number will be individually placed on the dial, starting from “Number 21” and continuing from the 20 Souscription pieces.

Evolution from the vintage original

Reviving the Daniel Roth brand is no easy feat, as the original set exceptionally high standards. Daniel Roth was truly an independent thinker in design and style, which is why the brand holds a significant place in the history of watchmaking.

Fortunately, LVMH chose the right approach by beginning with a tribute to the original — and executed it well. The new Tourbillon not only captures the original’s style with precision but also surpasses it with refined details, most notably a finely finished in-house movement and an exquisitely made guilloché dial.

The movement finally revealed

So, what distinguishes the latest Tourbillon in rose gold from the previous Souscription model in yellow gold? In essence, the new model features subtle refinements that enhance its appeal compared to the Souscription. The differences between the two ensure that the traits of the Souscription will remain unique, making both models special to their owners.

The new Tourbillon in rose gold features a notable addition: a see-through case back. This reveals the DR001 movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). This hand-wound movement offers an 80-hour power reserve and is distinguished by its refined finishing, including inward and outward angles on the bridges, as well as black-polishing on the straight winding click, tourbillon bridges, and tourbillon cage. This enhancement marks a considerable advancement from the vintage model, which used the standard Lemania calibre.

A refreshed dial with ligne guilloché

Aside from the movement, the new Tourbillon features a different front design. The rose gold dial, paired with the rose gold case, presents a pink-on-pink palette that distinguishes it not only from the Souscription but also from many of the vintage originals, which predominantly featured silver or grey dials. The choice of pink-on-pink is a striking and elegant one.

While the Souscription had a clous de Paris or hobnail guilloché dial, the latest model employs a ligne or straight-line guilloché pattern for added distinction. Additionally, the printing of the hour markers on the sub-dial at 12 o’clock has been refined to be slimmer and lighter compared to the bulkier appearance of those on the Souscription.

Tech Specs: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

Movement: Manual-winding DR001; 80-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds indicator; 60-second tourbillon
Case: 38.6mm ×35.5 mm × 9.2 mm; 18K rose gold; 30m water resistance
Dial: 18K rose gold with “lignes” guilloché
Strap: Brown calfskin strap
Availability: Through Daniel Roth retail partners
Limited edition: No