Louis Erard is an entry-level Swiss watchmaker that has remained an unusually appealing brand due to extensive collaborative work especially on its regulator watch. A myriad of Le Régulateur interpretations have come life thanks to partnerships with names such as seconde/seconde, Massena Lab, Label Noir, The Horophile (with whom they’ve just released a new Metropolis Green edition at 2024 Geneva Watch Days), and with top independent watchmakers from Vianney Halter to Alain Silberstein, and Konstantin Chaykin.

This year, the Swiss brand returns with a partnership with German independent watchmaker Kudoke, resulting in the Le Régulateur quartet — a textbook example of a successful collaboration that benefits both watchmakers as well as enthusiasts and collectors.

A first collaboration between Louis Erard and Kudoke

A collaboration between Louis Erard and any independent watchmaker is naturally a win for Louis Erard, as it introduces intriguing elements from a watch that would otherwise be out of reach for most collectors due to its exclusivity and price, into an entry-level piece. But this is also a win for the independent watchmaker. Some might think that bringing the traits of an indie watchmaker to a lower-priced watch cheapens their brand, but in my humble opinion, the opposite is true. Why?

Le Régulateur is, first and foremost, a Louis Erard. The regulator display is unmistakable. Few watchmakers today put significant effort into creating such watches. In other words, if you’re in the market for a regulator display watch, chances are that Louis Erard would be the first brand that comes to mind. The other maker’s involvement then is subtly integrated into a very recognizable Louis Erard design. In the case of this collaboration with Kudoke, the new Régulateur preserves the signature traits of both watchmakers. Kudoke’s originality and creativity are clearly highlighted — which is important because a true independent watchmaker doesn’t follow trends, herein creating something unique with their own philosophy or design. When these elements are strong, they stay recognizable, even in small details.

Eight distinctive details presented in four watches

For watch enthusiasts who are not familiar with either Louis Erard or Kudoke, Le Régulateur is simply an attractive watch with strong design elements and a range of dial options, here presented in variations of green, purple, and blue frosted dials for a modern look, or a mother-of-pearl dial for a classic appearance.

The Louis Erard aspect is straightforward: the regulator design, where the hour, minute, and second hands are arranged separately and aligned vertically. Kudoke’s influence here is evident in the design of the hands, particularly the infinity symbol at the end of the hour hand. They also include their signature chapter ring and font for the markers. Finally, the engraved logos for Kudoke and Louis Erard provide a subtle reminder of the partnership in writing.

Tech Specs: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke

Movement: Automatic-winding Sellita SW266-1A; 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds
Case: 42mm × 12.25mm; stainless steel; 50m water resistance
Strap: Calf leather strap with pin buckle
Price (excl. tax) :CHF 4,000 (green, blue, purple); CHF 4,500 (mother-of-pearl)
Availability: 78 pieces each for the purple and mother-of-pearl dials; 100 pieces each for the blue and green dials