Debuting just a year ago at the 2023 Geneva Watch Days, the Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité was a surprise due to its complexity and execution. It marks the brand’s first foray into the exotic chronometry genre, featuring a double-balance movement created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer.

Today, Czapek has given the watch some cosmetic updates, enhancing its standout features even more. Enter the Place Vendôme Complicité Stardust Cobalt.

A refined aesthetic with the addition of color

New to the Complicité are a few elements on the front, most notably the crystal. The brand has replaced the box sapphire crystal with a domed one. This change means the crystal now has a smooth curve rising from the edge towards the center, instead of a sharp rise near the edge.

What’s the impact? The result is a more dramatic crystal due to the continuous and long curve, making the watch appear more exotic — since box sapphire crystals are quite common. Another bonus is that the side view distortion is reduced, allowing a clearer view into the openworked dial.

Another update relates to the hour markers and hands. Previously, they were all silver, which blended with the dial for a minimalist look but didn’t aid readability. They have now been changed to blue, a color that stands out from the grayish dial while complementing it to appear refreshing. The result is visually appealing, as is evident in this wrist roll.

Mechanical excellence maintained in the new Complicité

Of course, all the mechanical marvels of the Complicité remain intact. There is an entire article written by our Editor-at-Large, Cheryl Chia, who dives into the technical details, which I encourage you to read here. But let me give you the breakdown:

There are two main highlights of this watch. First, the twin balances, each driven by the same gear train yet independent from the other, beat at its own rate. Second, a differential averages the beating rate of the two balances and outputs it as a central second.

In other words, there is one gear train that splits into two balances at the end, each beating at its own rate or error. The splitting starts at the fourth wheel — there are two fourth wheels and, naturally, two escape wheels, each leading to its own balance wheel. These are visible from two to five o’clock on the dial and on the opposite side.

The differential sits at twelve o’clock. It comprises two stacked third wheels, each supporting a distinct fourth wheel. The two third wheels rotate slightly differently because they are connected to different balance wheels. Sandwiched between the two third wheels is the planetary differential gear, which averages the rotation of the two third wheels (and thus the two balances) and outputs it through an auxiliary wheel, driving the central second. Theoretically, this is more accurate than having a single balance because the errors of the two balances can be averaged out.

The auxiliary wheel sits right under the differential and is visible from the back. One interesting feature of the auxiliary wheel is its spring-loaded teeth, made possible by LIGA technology, which reduces play when driving the central second.

My favorite Complicité is …

The Czapek Complicité has always intrigued me. The twin balances are an unexpected feature from the brand, and the symmetrical layout of the movement is undeniably attractive. The LIGA wheel adds a touch of innovation that is quite captivating, and the open-worked dial compactly displays the differential and twin balances in a symmetrical manner without clutter, which is a feat.

Still, the latest model represents a step in the right direction. The new domed sapphire crystal adds an exotic look and feel. And the high-contrast markers help distinguish the different layers of detail, adding much-needed depth. When it comes to the color palette, I still favor the earlier rose gold version. The combination of gold and blue was simple yet effective. The latest model, with its mix of gold, blue, silver, and a splash of red on the dial, feels somewhat overwhelming.

Choosing between the current and past versions is challenging, as each has its strengths. However, in terms of value for money, the newest model stands out. It costs the same as last year’s inaugural model but is much scarcer, limited to just 13 pieces compared to the previous 50.

Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité Stardust Cobalt

Movement: Calibre 8; manual wind; 72 hours of power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve indicator
Case: 41.8 mm x 14.8 mm; 18k white gold; water-resistant to 50 m
Strap: Alligator strap with 18k white gold folding buckle
Limited edition: 13 pieces
Price: USD 100,000