WES LANG: I think I first read an article online about Naoya Hida in 2018 or something, before he had officially launched his brand. At the time, I was writing a column for GQ and we reached out to see if we could borrow a watch to photograph, but he only had a single prototype and sadly couldn’t loan it to us. He was so nice about it. Then, in 2019, he officially launched with the Type 1B and I reached out to him through a mutual friend who knew him and was able to purchase one of the seven watches. And the Type 2A had come out around that time too, and I asked if it would be possible to purchase one of those as well — he had one, so I ordered both at the same time.

ADAM GOLDEN: I was only introduced to him and his brand two summers ago. It was 2021 and I was on a trip to Japan with a mutual friend of ours and he was like, “Hey, I’m going to go visit this watchmaker that Wes introduced me to, want to come?” Of course I was in. Naoya Hida turned out to be the nicest guy with this small workshop and he welcomed us with open arms. I like to support watchmakers who are good, genuine people and who really love watches.

WL: This guy truly loves watches. There’s no question.

AG: I had never met somebody who was, right off the bat, such an amazing person and so generous and passionate about what he does. He told us his whole history, how he got where he is — it was amazing. This guy really lives it.

WL: That’s why it drives me crazy when you look in the comments section of a website and people who know nothing about this man, who have never held one of his watches, look at a number [the price], see the watch is from Japan, and decide it’s not “worth it” or whatever.” You’d rather buy something else? Fine, go fuck yourself. Honestly, nine out of ten times, if the comments about a certain watch are bad and I want to buy it, I know I’m making the right choice.

AG: Haha, one hundred percent.

WL: I also love that Hida-san doesn’t want to make this thing too big. It’s only three people right now, but he just wants to make the watches he loves. Period. He takes applications once a year in the spring and then delivers the watches toward the end of the year and into the next year. Then he does it again. Some years there are entirely new models and some years there are new versions of existing models.

AG: There are so many “microbrands” out there that are just taking vintage watches — often vintage Pateks, Vacherons, etc. — and simply doing an homage or an outright copy. That’s fine, but it’s not interesting to me at all. With Naoya Hida, his inspiration is clear — he even told us in Tokyo that the Patek 96 and 570 are two of his favorite watches — but he’s also clearly made them his own.

You’d rather buy something else? Fine, go fuck yourself. Honestly, nine out of ten times, if the comments about a certain watch are bad and I want to buy it, I know I’m making the right choice.

WL: Yes, they’re one hundred percent his. Every day there seems to be a new brand doing some vintage-inspired this or that. I’m never going to buy one of those watches. This guy is making his own brand with his own DNA, and he’s telling his own story of this 30-plus year career in the watch industry. He’s worked for everyone — F.P. Journe, Ralph Lauren, Ebel, Vacheron.

AG: When you think about all that history, it really makes me feel lucky to be sitting here with these four watches. Can you tell me about the four in your collection?

WL: I have the Type 1B, which is the original design, the Type 2A, the center seconds watch, the Type 3A, the moon phase, and the Type 1D, which is the bi-metal steel and yellow gold watch. Honestly, the Type 1D is the one I wear the most — you can see the strap is the most beat up.

AG: You can definitely tell. What do you love so much about it?

WL: It’s really hard to say, I’m not sure. But it’s the latest one that I got and it might be my favorite at the moment.

AG: What’s your favorite design element across the watches?

WL: They’re all very different, actually. The case is uniform, with small tweaks, but otherwise, I feel like the combinations of the dial and hands of the Type 2 is incredibly interesting. The dial has an applied outer ring, and so the hands have to be stacked and layered in the particular way for everything to fit — especially the center seconds hand. It’s amazing.

AG: Wow, that stack really is amazing. The dial is almost like a sector dial too.

WL: Hida-san calls it a sector dial. There’s the main section in the middle, then the section with the hours, which is elevated, and then the two-tone minute track around the edge. It’s truly beautiful.

AG: I also love the way he signs the watches. The moment I saw it, I thought of the Patek Philippe long signature, even paying homage to the way they used to do these engraved dials filled with hard enamel. He did his modern interpretation of it, and I don’t think I’ve seen any other brand even try that.

WL: And I love that it says “Tokyo” too.

AG: Oh absolutely. Another reference to the “Genève” on the Patek dials. Perfect.

WL: There’s also this tiny “NH” engraving underneath the buckle. It’s like almost totally not branded at all, but then in the corner there’s just that tiny “NH.” I love it.

AG: I also remember him showing us how his dial maker works, and how labor intensive it is. Every little element is particular and has to fit together just so.

WL: This is why it’s hard to pick a favorite. Each one has its own charm. I love the Type 3 with this moonphase, where he went with a big, oversized, horseshoe moonphase.

AG: And it’s an angry moon too, right?

WL: It is! And I really like that the moonphase is controlled entirely by the crown, which is wildly convenient.

AG: And this is his first complication too. Do you know if he has plans for others?

WL: I don’t. He’s very secretive, and I like that about him. Sometimes I’ve met with brands and they can’t help but show you what they’re doing. “Don’t tell anyone, wink wink,” kind of stuff. He’s not like that. Whenever I’ve gone back and forth with him on email, he always says he’s excited to see what I think of the new releases. That’s it. He’s not revealing any secrets. Period.

AG: That’s the best though. Also, shout-out to him for keeping the watches around 37mm. That’s absolutely perfect.

WL: Totally. There are obviously other newer brands that you and I are both fans of. There’s Rexhep and what he does [at Akrivia], for example, and that’s a whole other animal, but I still think of this as the same kind of independent watchmaking. This isn’t a “microbrand” or whatever.

AG: Well, these watches aren’t inexpensive, to start.

WL: No, they’re not. Twenty grand a pop isn’t no money. But I think the value is incredible for what you’re getting. You’re not only paying for the watch that you have on your wrist …

AG: You’re also paying for who it’s coming from. For the knowledge that what he’s done in the watch world is important.

WL: It’s nice to see somebody who believes in themselves enough to do this. When you think about how few watches they sell, I truly don’t understand how he’s able to keep this open as a business.

AG: Even at these prices, they’re not selling that many and they’re not inexpensive to make. Plus all the research, the overhead, the development, employees. It’s crazy actually.

WL: But he’s doing this out of passion.

AG: Completely. You brought up Rexhep and that is a different ballgame of high horology, but what I really like about Naoya Hida’s watches is that they’re not trying to reinvent the wheel. He’s trying to make a beautiful, well- executed, classic watch that’s inspired by what he grew up loving and what he encountered during his incredible career. I think that’s really honorable.

WL: He’s not trying to become the next Vacheron or anything. He’s trying to be his own person. You wear this watch and you’re wearing something truly special. And you’re wearing it for yourself.

AG: You wear it for yourself and not to impress anyone else. There’s something to be said for watches that you put on your wrist purely for your enjoyment.

WL: There’s a time and a place for watches that are a big flex, a big fuck-you-look-what-I’ve-got kind of thing. I get that. Everybody’s guilty of it, everyone does that shit. But this is definitely not that in any way, shape, or form.

There’s a very emotional connection with Hida-san’s watches.

AG: Completely. Though, I do think it says something that lots of other well-known and respected collectors are huge fans and supporters of this brand. Not that it should be the deciding factor in whether somebody wants to pursue one of his watches or not, it does show you something. These guys aren’t stupid.

WL: I’ve been lucky to see some incredible watches, but there’s a very emotional connection with Hida-san’s watches. That’s how I approach collecting. It’s always emotional for me and this is right at the top of my priorities list when it comes to brands to collect.

AG: Well, I’m very happy for you, but I’ll admit I’m a little jealous…

WL: Don’t you have one?

AG: I’ll make sure to get my application in on time next time and hopefully he’ll approve me at some point. Good things come to those who wait, right?