A Quantum Leap in Timekeeping

In 1960, Bulova unveiled the world’s first fully electronic watch at the prestigious World’s Watchmaking Fair in Basel, Switzerland. This groundbreaking timepiece harnessed a 360-Hertz tuning fork, driven by a single-transistor electronic oscillator, to regulate its timekeeping functions – a stark departure from the traditional balance wheel mechanism.

The Accutron’s unique design not only ensured unparalleled accuracy, deviating by a mere minute per month, but also ushered in a distinctive audible signature – a soothing hum that replaced the familiar ticking of mechanical watches. This technological marvel caught the attention of the aerospace industry, leading to its adoption as the timekeeping instrument of choice for numerous satellite missions, including the Vanguard 1 in 1958.

Astronaut’s Companion

As the space race between the United States and the Soviet Union intensified, Bulova’s partnership with NASA solidified the Accutron’s place in history. All timekeeping instruments aboard NASA’s manned spacecraft missions, including the legendary Apollo 11 moon landing, were equipped with Bulova’s tuning fork technology. While the Omega Speedmaster Professional earned the moniker “Moonwatch” for being the first watch worn on the lunar surface, Buzz Aldrin’s placement of a Bulova Accutron timer in the Sea of Tranquility cemented the brand’s indelible contribution to space exploration.

It was in this context that the Accutron Astronaut emerged, a 214-based GMT timepiece designed specifically for the U.S. space program. Boasting a 24-hour rotating bezel, a secondary 24-hour hand, and a hack function, the Astronaut became a success in the consumer market.

From Supersonic to Hypersonic

Due to its capability to operate at a high frequency of 360Hz, the Accutron Astronaut demonstrated exceptional accuracy under conditions of high gravitational acceleration and extreme temperatures. This reliability positioned it as the preferred choice for the U.S. Air Force, leading to its official issuance to pilots flying the supersonic A-12 and hypersonic X-15 aircraft.

The Lockheed A-12, engineered for CIA operations, could achieve speeds thrice that of sound, marking it as the inaugural stealth aircraft capable of exceeding 2,000 miles per hour and attaining altitudes up to 95,000 feet. Meanwhile, the USAF’s X-15, an experimental rocket-powered aircraft, reached velocities up to 4,520 miles per hour and altitudes beyond 250,000 feet. This performance enabled many of its pilots to qualify for astronaut wings, as they fulfilled the requirements for spaceflight. The X-15 continues to hold the record for the highest speed ever achieved by a manned, powered aircraft.

In 1968, the Accutron Astronaut “T” model captured consumer interest with its unique bicolored day and night bezel.

Astronaut “T” 2023 Limited Edition

Accutron has drawn inspiration from its 1968 “T” model to unveil the Accutron Astronaut GMT mechanical watch in a special limited edition for 2023. This timepiece, entirely crafted in Switzerland, serves as a homage to the brand’s historic association with NASA space missions.

The original Accutron Astronaut featured a 38mm case, while the updated version is slightly larger 41mm stainless steel case, complemented by a partial exhibition caseback. The bezel is uniquely designed to represent day and night, with the segment from 5:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. in white and the remainder in black. The watch’s black dial presents high-contrast indexes and is enhanced with a liberal application of Super-LumiNova for improved visibility in low-light conditions.

Equipped with a Sellita SW330 automatic GMT movement, the contemporary Astronaut model offers a standard “Office” GMT function with quick-set features and a second time zone, indicated by a central GMT hand. The GMT hand is set independently with the second position of the crown.

Unlike the 1968 Astronaut, the modern homage has a traditional crown for setting the date and time, and GMT hand. Additionally, the bezel can be utilized to track a second or third time zone. This exclusive edition is limited to 300 pieces and comes with a matching stainless steel “bullet” style bracelet.

This bracelet is a modern interpretation of the iconic 1964 JB Champion ‘Bullet-Link’ bracelet, originally crafted for Bulova by J.B. Champion. The design perfectly complements the conical lugs of the Astronaut and features polished sides that taper inward, coupled with a brushed finish surface. This detail underscores the renowned quality of vintage Accutron bracelets.

The 2023 limited edition release has experienced robust sales, resulting in a significantly reduced availability of items in the marketplace. As a result, only a limited number of these exclusive pieces remain available for purchase. Potential buyers are encouraged to act promptly to secure these sought-after items before they are completely sold out.

Tech Specs: Accutron Astronaut GMT Limited Edition

Movement: Self-winding caliber SW330 GMT; 56-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and GMT
Case: 41mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Black; Super-LumiNova hour markers
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: USD 3,500
Availability: Limited edition of 300 pieces

New Sporty Dials with True GMT Function

The 2023 limited edition series paid tribute to the classic 1968 design, while the latest additions to the Astronaut “T” collection introduce three vibrant new dial colors—green, red, and navy blue—along with a true GMT complication. The case dimensions are consistent with previous models, yet these new variants distinguish themselves through their unique color schemes and detailing. The navy blue dial is elegantly presented in a 5N gold-plated case, complemented by a matching bezel, hands, and indexes. The green and red dials are paired with a bullet-style bracelet, whereas the blue dial features a NATO-style fabric strap. Each of the three models exudes a sporty yet sophisticated traveler’s watch aesthetic, enhanced by the lively hues of the dials and bezels.

Functionality sees a significant enhancement in the new Astronaut “T” series, incorporating a true GMT function powered by Citizen’s 9058 automatic caliber, specifically developed for Accutron. Unlike conventional GMT watches, the true GMT feature allows the local hour hand to be adjusted independently in one-hour increments without altering the 24-hour GMT hand. This facilitates swift and easy adjustments to the hour hand, moving both forwards and backwards, thereby accommodating rapid time zone changes for global travelers.

Tech Specs: Accutron “T” Color Expansion (Ref. 26B205, 26B206, 27B202)

Movement: Self-winding caliber 9058; 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and GMT
Case: 41mm; stainless steel or 5N gold plated; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Green/Red/Navy Blue; Super-LumiNova hour markers
Strap: Stainless steel “bullet” style bracelet or NATO fabric strap
Price: USD 2,200 Steel models / USD 2,600 5N Gold plated model

Dial “T” for Titanium

Accutron has expanded its offerings beyond new color schemes and genuine GMT functionality by unveiling the new Model “T” encased in grade 5 titanium with a matching bullet-style bracelet. The dimensions of the case remain consistent at 41mm, identical to those of the stainless steel models. However, the traditional 12-hour day/night bezel has been replaced with a 24-hour titanium bezel, a feature commonly associated with luxury sports watches.

The dial is presented in a subtle champagne hue that harmonizes with the brushed titanium finish. In addition to the titanium bullet-style bracelet, Accutron includes an additional strap for enhanced versatility. The timepiece is powered by the 9058 automatic movement, which features a distinctive Accutron rotor, visible through the caseback.

Tech Specs: Accutron “T” Titanium (Ref. 26B204)

Movement: Self-winding caliber 9058; 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and GMT
Case: 41mm; titanium; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Accutron Champagne; Super-LumiNova hour markers
Strap: Titanium “bullet” style bracelet
Price: USD 3,000

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