A. Lange & Söhne has certainly spared no effort in commemorating the 25^th anniversary of the Datograph. At Watches & Wonders this year, it unveiled the first-ever Datograph Up/Down with a white gold case, along with the magnificent Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” which brought together three of the brand’s hallmarks. Now at the Watches & Wonders Shanghai, it has unveiled the Datograph Handwerkskunst in yellow gold.

Limited to 25 pieces, the Datograph Handwerkskunst features an elaborate tremblage engraved dial along with a relief-engraved balance cock, but more than that, the chronograph levers in the movement have been black polished. Apart from the general grandiosity, it also boasts some meaningful changes. Notably, while the movement has all the technical upgrades that came with the second-generation Datograph Up/Down calibre, it does away with the “Up/Down” power reserve indicator. On top of that, it features Roman numerals like the original Datograph. Additionally, yellow gold is a particularly rare metal for the Datograph; the other Datograph in this metal is none other than the elusive ref. 403.041 “Yellow Jacket”. The Datograph is only the eighth model to be bestowed the designation of “Handwerkskunst” and the only one in the superlative family to be made in yellow gold.

The “Handwerkskunst” watches from A. Lange & Söhne is a series of limited editions that began in 2011. They represent the finest Lange watches where their already spectacularly finished movements are met with some of the most exotic and unusual decorative crafts on both the dial and bridges, most commonly balance cocks.

The previous seven editions, beginning from the most recent, are the Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (2021), the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst (2017), the 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (2015), the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (2014), the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst (2013), Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst (2012), and the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Handwerkskunst (2011). Although there are a few exceptions, the family of watches are typically characterised by tremblage engraving on the dial.

In terms of dimensions, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is identical to the standard Datograph Up/Down model, measuring 41mm wide and 13.1mm in height. The case finishing remains unchanged as well.

The Dial

The dial of the Datograph Handwerkskunst is made of solid yellow gold, matching the case. The main dial is finished with black rhodium, giving it a dark grey hue, while the chronograph counters are plated with light grey rhodium. As with previous Handwerkskunst models, the majority of the dial furniture are not appliqués but instead relief-engraved. However, this is more notable as, being a chronograph, it has more elements. The only other Handwerkskunst chronograph, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst, opted for a blue enamel dial engraved with stars, a choice that, in retrospect, makes sense given the complexity of the dial.

The elements that are engraved in relief on the Datograph includes the arch brand logo, the minutes and seconds graduations, the tachymeter scale and the chronograph counters. Only those with bevelling along their edges are applied which are the hour indices and Roman numerals.

The dial is decorated with tremblage engraving, a technique used to create a textured, shimmering effect on a metal surface. It has become synonymous with the Handwerkskunst collection, instantly distinguishing it from the regular production models as well as other limited editions. While it may appear straightforward, it is a fiendishly demanding technique. Using a burin — a fine-tipped engraving tool made from hardened steel — the engraver has to create a multitude of minute, seemingly random incisions across the metal. Though these cuts might seem haphazard, they are made with the intention of creating a contrast with one another. This process demands not only immense skill but also a keen instinct for how each stroke plays out in the overall composition.

This task becomes even more complex because of the numerous raised elements on the dial, which create very narrow spaces between them. The engraver must navigate the areas between the relief portions formed by engraving while achieving a levelled surface across the entire dial. According to Lange, a custom made lining burin had to be used. The result is a shimmering texture, as the countless tiny marks interact with light.

The raised elements are then brushed on their top surfaces. The hands are also in yellow gold and finished with straight-graining along with bevelling on their edges.

The Movement

The calibre L951.8 within is technically identical to the calibre L951.6 in the Datograph Up/Down but it does away the power reserve indicator. It offers 60 hours of power reserve and is equipped with a free-sprung 2.5Hz balance with inertial gold weights and a Breguet overcoil hairspring. The chronograph remains notably complete from a traditional technical standpoint even after a quarter of a century as it incorporates an instantaneous jumping minutes, a flyback function and a clutch lever that pivots concentrically with the axis of the drive wheel – a combination that none of its closest competitors have matched.

The new calibre L951.8 boasts several distinctive touches that distinguishes it from the regular version. The base plate and bridges have a frosted finish instead of the usual striping or “Glashütte ribbing,” a departure also seen in several other Handwerkskunst models. For contrast and to highlight its depth, the recesses of the chronograph plate retain the perlage decoration. Additionally, while the standard movement’s balance cock is engraved with floral motifs, the Handwerkskunst version showcases a relief-engraved vine pattern.

But the most dramatic upgrade is the generous dose of black-polishing lavished on the chronograph works. In the standard calibre L951.6, the majority of the parts are straight-grained; only a handful of parts are black-polished such as the column wheel, claw shaped flyback lever and springs mounted directly on the bridges. But here the majority are instead black polished including the brake, reset and clutch levers. Even the lever for the instantaneous jumping minutes counter and operating lever spring have received black-polish.

Notably, for contrast, some parts are left brushed which helps emphasise its elaborate, three-dimensional setup. For instance, the reset lever consists of two levers that are joined; the upper lever with its integrated spring is black polished while the bottom lever remains brushed. Similarly for the clutch lever that consists of two parts assembled by a screw, the bottom part that interacts with the column wheel is brushed while the top part that forms a complex shape is black-polished and lends itself once again to four sharp internal angles.

The elaborate symphony of finishing has only served to elevate what was before an already phenomenally beautiful movement, which over the course of 25 years has proven hard to beat.

Tech Specs

Movement: A. Lange & Söhne L951.8, manually wound, 60-hour power reserve; 2.5 hz (18,000 vph)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter
Case: 41mm x 13.1mm, 18k yellow gold
Dial: 18k gold; black and grey rhodiumed and tremblage-engraved
Strap: Hand-stitched dark brown alligator leather with grey seam
Availability: Limited to 25 examples
Price: Upon request