Michel Parmigiani, Founder of Parmigiani Fleurier, provided an insightful explanation regarding the naming of his first watch – the Toric. He elucidated that the term “Toric” is derived from “torus,” a geometric form that embodies a curved tube that is circularly closed, reminiscent of structures at the base of Greco-Roman columns. This particular shape, prevalent in classical architecture, served as the primary inspiration for the nomenclature of the Toric series. Parmigiani’s choice reflects a deep appreciation for historical aesthetics combined with precision in modern horology, encapsulating both the artistic and technical prowess that define his craft.

The art of Grenage

Michel Parmigiani has revitalized the ancient decorative dial technique known as Grenage, that had been lost to time. This intricate process involves creating a paste from tartar cream, finely ground sea salt, and silver, mixed with demineralized water. This blend is meticulously spread over the dial’s surface using a horn spoon. The artisan then employs specialized brushes to rub the dial in circular motions in all directions, working under subdued lighting to prevent the photosensitive silver from reacting. Initially, a stiff brush is used to impart a leaden hue, followed by a softer brush to achieve a denser, brighter grain. Through careful hand pressure and movement, the surface gradually accumulates tiny, tightly-packed silver grains, giving the dial its distinctive textured appearance.

This technique, which involves texturing the dial’s surface, harks back to an ornamental style used in several historical timepieces that Michel Parmigiani has expertly restored. The complexity of this method lies in its precision and the historical craftsmanship it seeks to replicate.

Michel Parmigiani explains, “Grained dials are prominently seen on antique marine chronometers and table clocks. During my restoration of Breguet’s Sympathique clock, I encountered a dial that had turned black due to the oxidation of silver. In some instances, such silver dials can be rejuvenated using a mixture of tartar cream, a soft brush, and water. However, irreparable dials require stripping with an abrasive material to achieve a uniformly matte surface.”

He continues detailing the process: “Once prepared, the surface is treated with a blend of cream of tartar, sea salt, silver, and demineralized water. This mixture is relatively straightforward to manipulate and is spread evenly over the dial’s surface. We employ specialized brushes to rub the dial in circular motions across all directions. Initially, a hard brush is used to give the dial a leaden hue.”

“To obtain a finer and whiter grained texture, a softer, thinner brush is employed. The bristles of this brush are designed to fold easily under pressure, which is manually applied. As the brushing continues, resistance builds until the dial starts to collect silver particles that bind to the surface. The French term for this finish is ‘grené,’ derived from ‘grain.’ This term aptly describes the appearance of closely packed tiny grains that emerge from this intricate process.”

The process in question is a variant of electrolysis that utilizes friction as opposed to electricity. This innovative technique facilitates the modification of a material’s surface in terms of thickness. However, it necessitates precise adjustments of the silver content used in the process and the movement applied during the treatment to prevent any inconsistencies. The outcome of this method is a unique matte finish characterized by its gentle, diffuse softness. When illuminated, the light interacts with the surface of the dial in a manner reminiscent of viewing a delicate sketch through a layer of tissue paper.

Michel Parmigiani, in designing his initial collections, employed this method of graining the dials. Each dial in the Toric series is meticulously hand-grained, a factor that inherently restricts the annual production capacity of our workshops. The limitation in production is primarily due to the finite time available and the limited number of artisans skilled in this particular technique. The expertise and unique proficiency of these craftsmen are pivotal to the production process, ensuring the high-quality and distinctiveness of each piece.

Tech Specs: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde

Reference: PFC940-2010001-300181
Movement: Manual winding caliber PF780; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case: 40.6mm × 8.8mm; 18K rose gold; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Hand-grained 18K rose gold in sand gold color
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather in gray celadon
Price: USD 48,400

Rare choice of gold for crafting movement

The exceptional nature of the Toric collection is matched by its internal mechanics. Models such as the Chronographe Rattrapante and the Petite Seconde demonstrate Parmigiani Fleurier’s prowess in movement design, featuring mechanisms crafted from 18ct rose gold—a rare choice in luxury watchmaking. The use of gold not only adds aesthetic value but also provides structural integrity, despite its inherent malleability which poses significant challenges compared to more commonly used materials like steel or brass.

The Chronographe Rattrapante boasts an open-worked bridge and a manufacture movement that is expertly chiseled, shaped, and decorated, adhering to the highest standards of traditional watchmaking. The art of skeletonization is employed here, meticulously removing material to create a delicate yet robust structure without compromising functionality. This results in a visually stunning display of arabesque patterns, with each bridge satin-finished and beveled by hand to enhance the movement’s elegance.

Conversely, the Toric Petite Seconde features a unique approach to its 18ct rose gold movement, opting for two architecturally inspired bridges that contribute significantly to the watch’s aesthetic. These bridges are adorned with the Côtes de Fleurier guilloché pattern, a sophisticated variation of the traditional Côtes de Genève, executed with meticulous care on an antique, cam-operated guilloché machine—a stark contrast to the modern, electronically controlled alternatives. Each component of these watches demands extraordinary patience, skill, and experience to craft, highlighting the importance of human touch in maintaining traditional techniques. This commitment is evident in the delicate balance of technical precision and artistic flair present in each timepiece.

The utilization of gold within movement construction is a practice marked by its rarity and sophistication. The Toric Chronograph Rattrapante exemplifies this exceptional craftsmanship, featuring a movement meticulously crafted from 18-carat rose gold. This movement operates at an elevated frequency of 5Hz and boasts an advanced double column wheel mechanism.

The design of the movement is intentionally skeletonized to create an arabesque-like appearance, thereby enhancing the visual engagement with its intricate components. This architectural openness not only invites admiration but also underscores the movement’s aesthetic and functional elegance.

This watch is not merely a timekeeping device; it represents a pinnacle of competition-class engineering, seamlessly blending the allure of gold with the precision of contemporary Haute Horlogerie. The movement comprises 285 individual components and 35 jewels, further equipped with a robust 65-hour power reserve, ensuring longevity and reliability in its operation.

Moreover, the movement’s capacity to deliver tenth-of-a- second precision highlights the technical challenge of working with gold—a material known for its malleability and demanding handling requirements. This level of detail and precision engineering will undoubtedly resonate with collectors who seek not only functionality but also an extraordinary aesthetic and material rarity in their timepieces.

Unique decoration of the movement

The Toric movement is meticulously adorned with the distinctive Côtes de Fleurier decoration, showcasing an intricate braided pattern that stands as one of your unique creations. Michel Parmigiani has expressed that the inception of this design was driven by the desire to establish a visual aesthetic distinctly different from the traditional Côtes de Genève. This initiative led to the exploration of new aesthetic territories, culminating in the creation of a geometric pattern that possesses a strong and identifiable character.

Upon closer inspection of the pattern, one can observe that the dimensions of the diamonds, which compose this exquisite ornamentation, strictly adhere to the proportions dictated by the golden ratio. This meticulous attention to detail ensures that each piece not only exudes elegance but also harmonizes with principles of natural beauty and balance.

Bespoke strap creation

Further emphasizing the collection’s dedication to craftsmanship, the bracelet of each Toric watch is treated with as much importance as the sophisticated movements and hand-grained dials. The crafting process of the Nubuck strap is akin to tailoring a bespoke suit, focusing on material quality and precision stitching. Each strap undergoes numerous manual operations, including hand-padding and sewing, which starkly contrasts the rapid pace of machine stitching. This meticulous process ensures each strap showcases subtle, distinctive variations, epitomizing artisanal excellence.

The straps feature a ‘punto a mano’ stitch, a signature of Italian tailoring, which involves a precise sequence of tiny and large stitches on the visible and inner sides, respectively. This unique stitching method, combined with the velvety texture achieved through careful Nubuck treatment, reflects the artisan’s sensitivity and attention to detail, culminating in a product that not only secures the watch but enhances its overall aesthetic and tactile experience.

In essence, Toric collection from Parmigiani Fleurier represents an exquisite fusion of traditional horological craftsmanship and artisanal mastery, setting a new standard for classic timepieces. Michel Parmigiani sums it up succinctly, “The new Toric introduces a touch of modernity that makes it appear more contemporary than the original model. This is evidence of its timeless nature.”

Tech Specs: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante

Reference: PFH951-2010001-300181
Movement: Manual winding caliber PF361; 65-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, and split seconds chronograph
Case: 42.5mm × 14.4mm; 18K rose gold; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Hand-grained 18K rose gold in natural umber
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather in sand gold color
Price: USD 145,200
Availability: Limited edition of 30 pieces