Since resurfacing in 2016, the Longines Legend Diver has become an absolute fan favorite among watch enthusiasts. The vintage styling of the double crown design reminiscent of mid-century super-compressor dive watches can be a bit divisive, but fans of vintage diver watches can’t get enough. In 2023, the Legend Diver was refined with the addition of a new 39mm case and the removal of the date window. Now, the collection is being expanded further with three new color variations – a rich sporty green, rusted red, and cool metallic gray.

The Legend Diver has received several updates and additions over the eight years since its revival. The first example was released in a 42mm case size which, while certainly on trend with market tastes at the time, felt a touch on the large size for the die hard vintage enthusiasts for which this reissue was intended. Two years later in 2018, a 36mm example in multiple dial combinations was announced, aimed more at a feminine demographic. The dials ranged from Black and mother of pearl to beige and red dégradé dials, with the darker variations all featuring tan, faux-tina luminous markers and numerals.

The evolution of these modern Legend Divers highlights something that is all too rare in the watch world – a brand that is deeply engaged in and in touch with the desires of their customers. Naturally, whenever a new product is released, opinions and expectations will vary (often dramatically so). But as each subsequent release has matured in the market, one can’t help but feel that Longines has taken in and incorporated the feedback that they’ve received for a product that seems to just keep getting better.

This is evident in the variations of case sizes, details, and dial colors that Longines has produced – beginning at 42mm, re-strategizing with 36mm, before landing on the “Goldilocks” size of 39mm last year. But alongside that case resizing, the blue and black variations were the first to show no sign of tanned, faux-tina lume.

Now, the stylistic choice of faux-tina is a fairly divisive one — some love it, some hate it, some are indifferent all together. But regardless of the aesthetics, I have personally always felt that there is a certain insecurity inherent in the practice. That is to say, the watch is, on some level, trying to be or emulate something it is not: an old watch.

With the release of the 39mm last year, the tan lume was gone, replaced by crisp white detailing set against the black or blue dials. It immediately made the watch feel more modern. Now, with the addition of the green, red, and gray dials, it feels like that Longines Legend Diver has truly arrived into a modern era, one where it isn’t beholden to the category of “vintage” reissue or homage. It simply is what it is: a cool, classic, distinct modern dive watch, confident that it can stand on its own two feet (or two crowns, as the case may be).

Tech Specs

Movement: Automatic calibre L888.6 movement, 72 hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, inner bi-directional rotating dive bezel
Case: 39mm stainless steel case, locking double crowns, screw-down caseback, water resistant to 300m
Dial: Green, Red, or Grey dial variations
Strap: Stainless steel beads of rice bracelet with pusher-operated folding clasp
Price: USD 3,400

Learn more on Longines website