It almost feels like a new watch launch isn’t considered successful unless it grabs attention right away. Maybe it’s a bold, over-the-top color, a mix of complications, or some daring combination of everything at once — there’s always something expected to get people talking.

But sometimes, it’s the quieter watches that stick with you — the ones with subtle improvements or the ones that fly under the radar. These are often the pieces that quietly stand the test of time and grow brighter as the years go by. A launch doesn’t have to be radical when the foundation is already strong. That’s exactly what I thought when I saw the new Master Ultra Thin Date from Jaeger-LeCoultre.

A few subtle changes to the new Ultra Thin Date

The Master Ultra Thin Date is the lesser-known sibling of the Master Control Date, with the key distinction being its height — 3 mm slimmer, which makes the new Master Control 40% thicker. It’s a difference that becomes strikingly apparent when handled in person.

As the more classic, elegant option, the Master Ultra Thin adopts a subtler style. This is reflected in the placement of the date window at six o’clock, offering a discreet yet practical detail. The hour markers, too, shift away from Arabic numerals on the quarters, opting instead for long baton indices reminiscent of old-school timepieces.

And then there’s the dial: a silver tone that’s almost white, but with just a hint of warmth. It’s classic Master collection through and through. Yet, there’s something more that resonates with me — something that makes the Master watches feel more compelling. Take, for example, the grey dial on the white gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon. I saw that piece a few years ago, and that memory has been stuck with me ever since. It stood out in the display window, even among the more complicated models.

Thankfully, this modern dial makeover now makes its way to the base model with just a date. And even better, the blue-and-grey dial is paired with steel this time, as opposed to gold.

The blue-and-grey color update might seem like a subtle update to many, but there’s no denying that it completely transforms the look and feel of the watch  without sacrificing any of its core appeal, which is the essence of a successful new launch. The tone is just right, striking a balance between sporty and youthful without being too flashy. Instead, it exudes a classy, understated casualness. There’s something about a white metal dress watch with a greyish dial that gives it an effortless elegance, much like the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119.

The Master Ultra Thin Date’s slim profile

While the dial might be the star, the case of the Master Ultra Thin Date leaves an even stronger impression when handled in person, thanks to its remarkable thinness. At just 7.8mm in thickness, it boasts a profile that is impressively slim for an automatic watch — and even thinner than many hand-wound watches.

The thinness of the case calls for a simple design. A slim bezel and an understated case flange, as expected. Yet, it’s far from plain. For instance, the twisted bevel on the lugs is a standout detail, both literally and figuratively, with its polished finish contrasting beautifully against the brushed surfaces.

Inside the watch is the cal. 899, an in-house movement based on the cal. 889, which has been used by JLC as well as other brands for decades. The cal. 899 was also featured in the older Master Control Date but has since been replaced by a more modern movement, offering a longer power reserve and greater thickness. This makes the Master Ultra Thin Date one of the last models to house this veteran movement.

The cal. 899 is decorated with a mix of elements that add visual interest, including blue screws, pink jewels, gilded machine engraving, and Côtes de Genève stripes. The finishing on the countersinks and bevels is much to be admired when compared to competitors in the same price range, although it finishes quite thin.

Tech Specs: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date

Movement: Automatic-winding Cal. 899; 38-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; date
Case: 39mm × 7.8mm; steel; water-resistant to 50m
Strap: Black alligator strap with folding buckle
Price: USD 9,550