We love Independent watching at Revolution, and seeing its tsunami-like wave of creativity in a quiet, contemplative 2024 has been a joy. With Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II, the creative minds of Louis Erard’s Manuel Emch and Vianney Halter give us the collaborative finale we were waiting for.

We loved the first version of Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter in 2020. Back then, only 178 limited pieces were sold out instantly, with a distinctly Halter-cool take on Louis Erard’s figure-of-eight regulator style. This week, a similar Piéce Unique was hammered for 130,000 HKD at Phillips in their Hong Kong auction. Now, one of the coolest collabs of the Swiss indie scene is back with not one but two 178-piece editions, serving hard with a Steampunk aesthetic we’re happy to embrace.

When Manuel met Vianney

As independent brands go, the two watchmakers might seem very different stylistically, but they share the same creative passion. Louis Erard is known for expansive dials with a distinct figure-of-eight Regulator design, with a creative portfolio in the mid-priced segment of the market. But in recent years, CEO Manuel Emch has stepped up the game, making pieces unique creations and collaborating with various brands from Vianney Halter to Pop Art supremo Alain Silberstein.

On the eve of revealing this second collaboration with Steampunk-overlord Vianney Halter, Emch says: “Creating with Vianney is about friendship and defying limits. This piece is a true joint endeavour! It’s got the Steampunk rivets, the off-center dials, and bold, intricate details that leave nothing untouched. A watch with all the independent Haute Horlogerie codes … yet still within reach, bold enough to stand out, yet made to be worn daily.”

We share Emch’s enthusiasm and deeply respect Vianney Halter’s quirky spark of creativity, which spawned the mythical Antiqua. Did we ever think we would taste its riveted extravagance for less than CHF 5,000? Probably not, but thanks to Manuel Emch and Vianney Halter’s creative friendship, the answer today is a resounding yes.

Vianney is a watchmaker who challenges horological conventions with his bold, Haute Steampunk creations. It even feels natural to credit Vianney Halter’s 1998 Antiqua for firing up the engines of today’s runaway train of indie-cool from Switzerland. Its intricate and quirky details have inspired brands like MB&F and even futurist industrial Urwerk. Spotting tell-tale details like its ornate signature crown with 24 red gold rivets in a wearable, affordable piece feels almost revelatory.

Integrating the distinctive codes of Antiqua into the Régulateur

The case bears Louis Erard’s hallmarks, with a 43mm diameter and sweeping lugs that’ll hug most wrists comfortably with their 49.6mm stretch. The two versions come on hand-stitched brown leather straps that enrich the warm tones of 5N red gold details, and the drama starts around the two alternative dial scenarios. Both references come with the trademark Vianney Halter design of a brushed, riveted bezel, with 5N red gold rendering the polished 12 rivets stand-out details for the sharp dial art within.

We can see the figure-of-eight Louis Erard design, but twisted about 40 degrees anti-clockwise, with the crown following at an ergonomic two o’clock position, flamboyant riveting on display. With this twist, you might see a driver’s watch here, similar in concept to the angled Vacheron 1921 (hey PR, you missed this!). The twist is carried on to the brushed outer chapter ring with opposing plates of the two brands. Hours and running seconds on the Regulator dial are both set within open sub-dials, with crisp black serifed Halter fonts on applied, bevelled chapter rings. The retail exclusive ref.85246AA03.BVA172 has circular-brushed steel chapter rings and a 5N-plated vertically brushed center matching the delicious pop of each polished rivet.

The e-boutique exclusive series of 178 watches with ref. 85246AA02 BVA172 boasts a vibrant dial where the materials are flipped. A red gold 5N-plated brushed finish lends a warm tone to the railway print minute chapter and the open sub-dials, with dramatic blued hands providing the finishing touch. The design emanates from the first 2020 collaboration, and here, they underline a remarkable value proposition for lovers of the Steampunk aesthetic.

For some, the choice of movement, the Sellita SW266-1, will be the elephant in the room, and I would heartily disagree. This is a 38-hour reserve, dedicated Regulator movement, and an ace card for accessible pricing. I have a few watches with the Sellita 200-series, and I find it an accurate, solid choice. Here, it comes with meticulous decoration and an open-worked rotor with a black-lacquered Louis Erard décor.

For many would-be collectors of Vianney Halter and Louis Erard fans, the elegant base of a brushed and polished 43mm Erard case with an accessible movement choice will be applauded. Comparing the delicate dial details, brushed copper-toned chapter rings and ornate design, CHF 4,400 represents a big value. Especially considering that the Antiqua regularly goes for over CHF 200,000 at auctions, and the smaller, delightful Classic regularly achieves CHF 40,000-50,000. Should the question be raised, Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II belongs on this year’s list of top collaborative efforts.

Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II ref 85246AA02 BVA172 will be available in the Louis Erard e-Boutique, while the ref.85246AA03 BVA172 will be available at select retailers. Both are priced at CHF4,444 ex.tax, and each is a limited edition of 178 pieces.

Tech Specs: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II

Reference: 85246AA02.BVA172 and 85246AA03.BVA172
Movement: Automatic-winding Sellita caliber SW266-1; 38-hour power reserve
Functions:  Regulator hours, minutes and seconds
Case: 43mm × 10.95mm; stainless steel; 50m water-resistance
Dial: Rhodium-plated with red-gilt 5N base or red-gilt 5N with rhodium-plated base
Strap: Dark brown grained calf leather strap with polished stainless steel pin buckle
Price: CHF 4,400 (excl. taxes)
Availability: Limited to 178 pieces each