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Zodiac Celebrates 140th Anniversary

by Bhanu Chopra . Oct 3, 2022

Zodiac Celebrates 140th Anniversary

Founded in 1882 by Ariste Calame in Le Locle, Switzerland and officially registered as Zodiac in 1908, the brand has been creating Swiss made watches for 140 years. In 1928, Zodiac released its first extra flat pocket watch with the caliber 1617 movement and showcased the very first automatic sports watches in 1930.

In 1953, the original Sea Wolf was marketed as the first dedicated “dive watch” for the masses. This model and its successor, the Super Sea Wolf, are still among the most iconic timepieces according to dive watch collectors.

The vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf

An old advertisement for Zodiac Sea Wolf

In 2001, the company was acquired by Fossil, but it wasn’t until 2015 that new Sea Wolf watches called the “Skin Diver” and the “Diver” hit the market as vintage-inspired tributes to the 1953 models. These new models were powered by the in-house STP1-11 automatic movement and, since then, the collection has developed with exciting colors, designs, and material variations at a very accessible price for a Swiss made luxury timepiece.

Zodiac Sea Wolf, 2015

Modern Designs, Movements and Cases

In the early 2000s when Fossil had acquired Zodiac, the brand was still under development and was offering the large 45mm-plus watches, which were in vogue at the time. In 2002, Fossil acquired Antima in Biel, Switzerland, which was and still is responsible for the designs and prototyping of all the Zodiac watches.

I met with Chris Moreau, global product director of Zodiac, who stated, “We designed the classic Zodiac dive watches, like Super Sea Wolf, keeping in mind how these watches would be imagined if they were created now. We designed a modern interpretation of a classic, rather than creating an exact copy.”

STP and STC movement and case manufacturer based in Gloverlier, Switzerland

In 2012, Fossil acquired Swiss Technology Production, or STP, that had been focused on assembling and finishing parts for movements with innovation and attention to detail. STP was originally based in the remote Canton of Ticino and had released their STP1-11 movement in 2008. STP1-11 was manufactured to counter the shortage of ETA movements, that were only available to brands within the Swatch Group. The movement shared similar architecture as the ETA and Sellita movement. It was easy to service, regulate and customize. Complications could be added as a module to the base caliber.

Assembly of watch movements and complete watches at STP manufacturer

In the following year, 2013, Fossil acquired Swiss Technology Components, STC, that manufactures cases, mainplates, bridges, customized rotors, and does complete assembly of watches.

Fossil consolidated STP and STC under one roof in Glovelier, about 40 minutes’ drive from Biel. During my recent visit to the STP/STC manufacture in the Jura valley, I couldn’t help noticing several prestigious manufactures next door, like Biwi SA which manufactures watch straps for brands such as Richard Mille and Omega, and Cartier’s case manufacture.

Zodiac watch cases are manufactured by STC with CNC machines and finished by hand. While some of the movement components are sourced from outside by STP, the mainplates, bridges and rotors are manufactured in-house. All the movement kits are walked over to STC employees sitting a few feet away, only divided by a partition on the same floor. All the assembly is done in the facility and produced to the rigorous “Swiss Made” qualification standards.

Manufacturing of cases, mainplates, and rotors in Gloverlier facility

Super Sea Wolf Compression Automatic featuring STP 1-11 movement and STC stainless steel case

After the success of STP1-11, STP2-12 was developed in 2015 with a power reserve and, in 2016, the STP5-15 movement created a caliber with a visible balance or “open heart.” Soon after, the fully skeletonized STP6-15 movement was available with an open architecture that revealed the inner workings of the mechanicals. STP currently lists 17 movement configurations, including complications like date, moonphase, small seconds and power reserve indicator, and it has more under development.

Zodiac watches are primarily powered by STP1-11 movements and STP3-13 COSC certifiable with a swan-neck regulation system. Soon to be added is the GMT complication, which was in the past sourced from Soprod movement manufacturer. Now STP will be manufacturing them in-house.

STP 1-11 movement shares similar architecture as the ETA and Sellita movement

Birth of the Super Sea Wolf Ceramic

Zodiac has steel and titanium cases in its current lineup, all manufactured by STC in Glovelier. As an exciting new addition to the Sea Wolf collection, Zodiac is introducing the Super Sea Wolf Ceramic. Inspired by the colors of the deep oceans, the dial is presented in a midnight blue with a radiant sunburst treatment. White hands and markers stand out against this dark backdrop for a striking contrast and ultimate legibility.

The Super Sea Wolf Ceramic is crafted from a high- polish, hardened ceramic for a scratch resistant and corrosion resistant case. The benefits of ceramic are numerous, including its lightweight strength and wear-friendly hypoallergenic material properties.

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic, Ref. ZO9595

“We’ve always been attracted by the allure of ceramic,” said Zodiac creative director, Ryan White. “Not only for its resistance to wear and color fading over time but the opportunities it allows us to explore creatively.”

In a perfect pairing by the designers, the strap is made from caoutchouc rubber. This is a high-tech material made from natural rubber that has proven itself to be highly durable and perfect for sports with its water resistance and long-wearing comfort. As a nice finishing touch, the rubber strap is scented with a vanilla aroma.

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic’s dark blue colorway and complementary white accents do justice to its impressive dive watch heritage. The reliable STP1-11 movement and the ceramic and natural rubber materials are great choices for a timepiece that will serve a diver for many years to come.

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic, Ref. ZO9595

The value proposition

Zodiac prides itself on delivering quality, Swiss made watches with an affordable price tag, and the Super Sea Wolf Ceramic is no exception at only USD 1,695. This timepiece is an excellent investment for a watch enthusiast looking for a luxury tool watch that will be a constant companion from a day at the office to an afternoon under the waves.

Tech Specs

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic, Ref. ZO9595

Movement: Self-winding caliber STP1-11; 44-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Case: 40mm; high-polish, hardened ceramic with steel core; water resistant to 200m DIAL Sunburst midnight blue; white hour markers
Strap: Vanilla scented caoutchouc rubber; black DLC pin buckle
Price: USD 1,695
Availability: Limited run

Brands:
Zodiac

Tags:
2022 Novelties

Modern Designs, Movements and Cases

Birth of the Super Sea Wolf Ceramic

The value proposition

Tech Specs

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic, Ref. ZO9595

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