Few things are as exciting in the world of watches as a new bezel option from Rolex. A change that, for any other brand on the planet would be seen as an incremental cosmetic change is, for Rolex fans, a revolutionary change worth celebrating. So, when the Big Crown dropped a black and grey GMT-Master II (reference 126710GRNR) in Oystersteel, the reaction was a fanfare that seemed oppositional to the subdued nature of this latest take on the pre-eminent travel watch.

Before we dive into the weeds as to what makes this latest Black and Grey model the latest and greatest, it’s time for a quick history lesson on the Rolex GMT. The early years of this watch (which debuted in 1954) and its tie-in with the iconic Pan Am airlines are pretty well known, but what many people don’t think about too often is that the GMT-Master became the GMT-Master II in 1983, meaning that (from a nomenclature point of view), we’ve been in the second generation of this iconic tool watch for 41 years now, outstripping the 29-year production run of the first iteration by more than a decade. Of course, it’s not all about the name on the dial. Over the years, Rolex has continually updated the watch, with ceramic bezels coming in 2005, with the reference 116718, a gold watch which featured an all-black bezel, debuted the more modern case and maxi dial that we are familiar with today. In 2007, the black dialled, black bezelled reference 11670 was released, a watch that serves as the most direct historical antecedent to today’s Reference 126710GRNR.

Discontinued in 2019, the reference 11670 (and its precious-metal-cased siblings) marks an important moment in time for Rolex — serving as the testing ground for many defining elements in modern sports watch identity. It was also the last time we had a GMT-Master II with a single colour bezel, as the 2010s saw an increasing prioritisation of bi-colour bezels, first the ‘Batman’, then the ‘Pepsi’ and more recently the ‘Rootbeer’ and the ‘Sprite’. Not only does this approach allow for extra utility — allowing the bezel to be used as a day/night indicator — but it also lets Rolex show off its Cerachrom expertise and creates a visual distinction between the GMT-Master II and the Submariner.

A Subtle Cerachrom Bezel

While the bolder GMT bezels have plenty of fans, it was clear that the all-black bezel had plenty more. For those hoping for a return to these monochrome days, the 126710GRNR is great news. The bezel, in keeping with the rest of the GMT-Master II family, is two-tone, but barely. The top is inky black, while the bottom is a more ghost-like grey, which has the twin benefits of making this travel watch look a lot less flashy on the wrist, and also evoking the pleasing patina of aluminium inserts of yore.

It’s also a bezel that returns the GMT-Master II to its utilitarian roots. Of course, the 126710GRNR isn’t any more capable than the Batman and the Pepsi, but it feels more toned down and less- attention-seeking on the wrist. And while no current production Rolex could realistically be called ‘stealth’, this 40mm steel sports watch with its black dial and near-black bezel feels as close to under the radar as a GMT-Master II is going to get.

Bracelets: Dress it up or down

Of course, as has become more common in recent years, the 126710GRNR is available on either the Oyster or the Jubilee bracelet. The Oyster is the more traditional option and feels more purposeful and utility-focused. The Jubilee elevates the whole package somewhat, thanks to the three rows of polished centre links. On top of that (and I’m willing to admit this could very well be personal preference), the Jubilee is exceptionally comfortable on the wrist, thanks to the additional suppleness supported by the smaller links. Of course, comfort is great on both options, thanks to the Easylink extension link.

Superlative Precision

So far, we’ve focused primarily on the external aspects of the watch, which certainly live up to Rolex’s standards for reliability and robustness. But it’s the calibre of this watch where these values all come together. Like all the other GMT-Master II models, the 126710GRNR is powered by the Caliber 3285, which replaced the 3186 and was introduced in 2018. This movement is bringing a lot to the table, with 10 patents and plenty of user-friendly features. The Chronergy escapement helps bring the power reserve up to 70 hours, and Paraflex shock absorbing systems add to the robustness, which adds up to the near peerless -2/+2 accuracy rating. On top of the regular chronometry, the GMT functionality operates as a ‘true’ GMT, with an independently adjustable local time hand, making on-the-fly adjustments exceptionally simple, something much appreciated when you’re in the depths of jet lag.

Final thoughts: A bezel says a thousand words, or less

It should surprise absolutely no one that technically, the watches of Rolex get better and better with each iteration, and the GMT-Master II is no different. Specs-wise, this watch is exactly the same as the Batman and Pepsi models, but when it comes to the vibe, this black and grey-bezelled watch feels very different. Thanks to the black-and-blue or blue-and-red Cerachrom bezels of those other models, they stand out. If you’re looking to make a statement or aren’t fussed either way, this is great. However, some people are actively looking for something a little more subtle, and this is the important gap in the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710GRNR fills in the market — it offers a spirit of utility that reminds us why these watches are so legendary in the first place while feeling perfectly pitched for 2024.

Tech Specs: Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710GRNR

Movement: Caliber 3285, automatic, 70 hours of power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT
Case: Oystersteel, 40mm, water-resistance to 100M
Dial: Black
Strap: Oyster or Jubilee
Price: CHF 10,200

Explore GMT-Master II models on Rolex.