A pair of long-standing watches in Breguet’s catalog, the Classique 5177 and Classique Phase de Lune 7787, are finally receiving a makeover — their first in five years. This latest duo, with its stealthy black grand feu enamel dial and contrasting brilliant platinum case, makes the long wait for this update well worth it.

Three-hand and date

A straightforward three-hand watch, the Classique 5177 is offered in various styles, including the guilloché dials quintessential to Breguet, along with enamel dials introduced more recently. The two latest versions reveal a new direction for the brand, using bold, striking colors to bring liveliness to the watch while preserving traditional dial-making techniques. This approach first appeared with a blue enamel version and now, finally, with a striking black enamel, arguably the most attractive iteration to date.

Beyond the glossy, high-quality enamel, the dial also boasts unique details that set it apart from other dress watches in this price range. For example, the minute markers are rendered as star shapes, a touch that will delight collectors, as it’s drawn from vintage Breguet pocket watches. And, of course, the dial features classic Breguet numeral hour markers.

Then there’s the date window. Though it’s designed to blend in with a black background, it remains noticeable on the clean dial. Some may feel it’s unnecessary, while others might think it complements the watch’s cheerful, youthful style, especially with its ornate numerals and markers.

Moonphase and power reserve

The other black enamel watch, the Classique Phase de Lune 7787, contrasts with the 5177 by featuring multiple indicators arranged asymmetrically, creating an organic, complex look that may be even more captivating.

For one, the arrangement of the power reserve indicator, moonphase, and the brand’s logo is unconventional, setting it apart from similar watches on the market.

Each component is also done with fine detail. The power reserve indicator, for example, is extra-long — a nod to vintage pocket watches — and adds elegance to the dial. The moonphase is equally noteworthy, with a solid-gold moon disc hammered to resemble the Moon’s surface.

Case and movement

As expected from a traditional brand like Breguet, both watches are classically proportioned in both width and height. The time-and-date 5177 measures 38 mm in diameter and 8.8 mm in height, while the Phase de Lune 7787 is slightly larger at 39 mm by 10.3 mm, yet remains compact for its complications.

The sizing is particularly well done, being small enough to look elegant yet large enough to meet modern standards. In other words, the size is neutral, making it wearable for both men and women alike without feeling out of place.

What’s less expected is that both watches feature automatic movements, adding to their convenience. The movements are visible through a sapphire caseback, revealing guilloché-decorated rotors, with the 5177 boasting a more complex guilloché pattern.

It’s worth noting that the two watches are powered by different movements. The time-and-date 5177 uses the cal. 777, developed by Breguet from the ground up in 2006, while the Phase de Lune 7787 relies on the cal. 591, based on a vintage Lemania movement.

This explains why the cal. 777 has a longer, more modern power reserve of 55 hours, while the cal. 591 offers a more classical power reserve of 38 hours. That said, both movements feature Breguet’s advanced technology, including a silicon escapement and hairspring, which are antimagnetic and enhance timekeeping accuracy.

Tech Specs: Breguet Classique 5177

Movement: Cal. 777 Q; automatic; 55 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Case: 38 mm x 8.8 mm; platinum; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Black alligator strap with platinum pin buckle
Availability: At Breguet boutiques and retailers
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 39,800

Tech Specs: Breguet Classique Phase de Lune 7787

Movement: Cal. 591 DRL; automatic; 38 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, moon phase, and power reserve indicator
Case: 39 mm x 10.3 mm; platinum; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Black alligator strap with platinum folding buckle
Availability: At Breguet boutiques and retailers