It’s been eight years since we last saw a forged carbon watch from Audemars Piguet, in the name of the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “QE II Cup” (right as the global fervor for sports watches was building toward its peak). Since then, this material has been absent from its collection … until now. Audemars Piguet reveals their latest advancement with the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph equipped with a 24-hour function and a large date display, all in a newly patented Chroma Forged Technology (CFT). This model introduces a two-tone forged carbon watch with both blue and black fibers — a first for the brand.

The absence of this material over the years has left collectors eagerly anticipating its return. Recently, there were indications of new developments, as Audemars Piguet filed a patent for a new type of forged carbon material, offering improved mechanical strength and color performance compared to traditional versions.

AP’s pioneering use of forged carbon and Chroma Forged Technology

Audemars Piguet was the first to introduce the use of forged carbon into watch casemaking. Fans of the brand — and of sports watches — in the early 2000s will remember the Royal Oak Offshore “Alinghi.” Launched in 2007, the “Alinghi” had all the desirable elements: a bold, all-black design and the groundbreaking use of forged carbon, which was unprecedented at the time. In the years that followed, forged carbon appeared in several watches, from the classic Millenary Tourbillon to the highly complex Royal Oak Concept Laptimer. As an innovator and pioneer, Audemars Piguet holds itself to high standards.

While the new watch’s split-second chronograph feature deserves attention, the true highlight lies in the patented Chroma Forged Technology used in its carbon case. Forged carbon has become a well-established material in watchmaking, yet innovation remains essential. Traditionally, forged carbon is made by combining carbon fibers with a resin that acts as a binder.

For colored forged carbon, two primary methods exist. The first involves mixing colored glass-fiber reinforced polymer (GFRP) with resin, which then binds the carbon fibers. The second method colors the resin directly before using it to bind the carbon fibers.

It’s important to note that in both methods, the color comes from the resin, not the carbon fiber. This creates a challenge: as color pigments dissolve in the resin, they can migrate, resulting in inconsistent color control. For example, combining blue and yellow pigments in a forged carbon mixture may produce an unintended green hue.

Audemars Piguet sought greater precision in color control by opting to color the carbon fibers themselves instead of the resin. This innovative approach forms the basis of their patent. How did they achieve this? By introducing solid pigment particles. Unlike existing methods that use soluble pigments prone to migration and unintended blending, Audemars Piguet employs solid pigments that adhere to the surface of the carbon fibers. These pigments do not dissolve in the resin, allowing for clear, defined color regions without unexpected blending.

A patented forged carbon that’s stronger and better

Interestingly, despite these high-tech innovations, the watchmaker has preserved elements of handwork in the process. After the carbon fibers are colored, they are meticulously arranged in a mold according to the intended design and completed with resin. This layering technique resembles constructing a mille-feuille pastry, resulting in unique motifs for each case middle and seamlessly blending cutting-edge technology with the artisans’ expertise in Le Brassus.

The brand didn’t stop at aesthetic innovation. Following their advancements in colored forged carbon, Audemars Piguet turned their attention to another challenge: the brittleness of it. Early enthusiasts of forged carbon watches can certainly relate, recalling the scratches and dents that often marked their cases.

To tackle this issue, Audemars Piguet developed a process for molding forged carbon blocks that employs precise pressure and temperature control. This technique uses a specific cycle to densify the carbon fiber and resin mixture, reducing porosity and enhancing the material’s overall quality and durability. The curing process occurs under pressure for ten hours, significantly improving the resin’s properties. Additionally, the brand has successfully decreased the percentage of binder (resin), further bolstering the strength and resilience of the forged carbon.

Once cured, the resulting carbon block undergoes machining for six to eight hours to shape the Royal Oak Concept case.

A two-tone forged carbon case that glows in the dark

Audemars Piguet’s latest innovation offers a striking aesthetic with its two-tone forged carbon case in blue and black. The incorporation of luminescent pigment allows the blue section to glow in the dark in an organic, complex pattern. The open-worked dial is accentuated with electric blue highlights, while a black ceramic bezel complements the look.

On the dial, the blue luminesence is not just present on the central hands and hour markers, but also on the chronograph elapsed hands and the double-digit date at 12 o’clock. The glowing date stands out as one of the most striking elements in low light, creating a digital effect that enhances its visibility and adds to the watch’s overall appeal.

A clever movement construction

After highlighting the innovative case material, we can now focus on the movement, which is equally, if not more, impressive. At its heart lies the cal. 4407, a new movement introduced last year.

The cal. 4407 is primarily a split-second chronograph, a highly regarded complication. It also features GMT functionality, a big date display, and is automatic. While such features might suggest a thicker watch, the movement itself is surprisingly thin at just 8.9 mm. How did the brand achieve this? The secret lies in the extra-wide rotor hub, which accommodates the split-second mechanism at the same level. This design not only allows for a slimmer movement but also enhances the visual appeal by eliminating the obstruction typically caused by a central rotor.

It’s easy to find watches made from impressive materials today, and classical complications like split-second chronographs are also fairly accessible. However, combining both elements into a modern package with solid innovations and contemporary aesthetics is no small feat. Audemars Piguet excels in this regard, and the latest Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date serves as a prime example.

Tech Specs: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date 43mm

Movement: Self-winding Calibre 4407; 70-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; small seconds; flyback chronograph; split-seconds chronograph; 24H GMT; large date
Case: 43mm × 17.4mm; CFT carbon case; 50m-water resistance
Dial: Openworked dial in black PVD nickel silver
Strap: Blue and black rubber strap; additional black and blue rubber strap