If you want to understand the Richard Mille RM 17-02 Tourbillon Titanium, you need to get it in your hands. This is the kind of watch that really benefits from being seen in the metal and, crucially, held.

The lightweight titanium case, which is fitted with a titanium movement, beggars belief. It isn’t the lightest mechanical watch in the world, but its size-to-weight ratio is remarkable. At 40.10mm wide, 13.0 mm tall, and with a 48.15mm L2L, you could be forgiven for expecting a significant amount of weight on the wrist, but, instead, thanks to the curved case and integrated rubber strap, the wearing experience is as light as air.

That’s thanks in large part to the fact that there is not very much of it at all, aside from the iconic tripartite tonneau-shaped case around which most Richard Mille watches are designed.

What sets this one apart from its peers, however, is the extensive use of PVD treatments to color the titanium bridges of the movement. The titanium used is described as “ribbed” and boasts exceptional flatness and rigidity making it the ideal material for movement plates, bridges, and cocks of such thinness.

It is essential for a watch caliber’s architecture to remain sturdy, especially at these proportions, as the slightest movement or deformation of a bridge or plate or cock could be enough to crush the necessary “end shake” and stop the watch dead.

End shake is the name given to the up-and-down play between the bearing shoulder of a wheel’s pivot and the bearing surface of the jewel (or plate/bridge/cock if the bearing is unjeweled as is the case for many barrel bridges in tractor movements like the ETA 2824, for example). It is essential to have just the right amount of end shake. Too little, and the wheel won’t be able to turn freely; too much, and the wheel could slide out of engagement with the rest of the gear train (something that could have catastrophic consequences for the caliber).

Using titanium, which is very stiff, is a wise choice here. The only drawback is how expensive it can be to machine given its propensity to burst into flames if it is machined too quickly or without adequate coolant.

There can be no doubt that Richard Mille makes a materially excellent product. The design is the brand’s own and is known around the world. The technology and finishing techniques often employed are, in many instances, industry-leading. 

The satinized titanium case is stealthy and handsome but far from the wildest we’ve seen from the brand. And while for many brands a tourbillon would be something to shout about, Richard Mille has long since mastered the manufacture of the theoretically gravity-compensating regulators.

The stop mechanism on the barrel to prevent overwinding is a nice touch. The seventy-hour power reserve and fast rotating barrel (which completes one full rotation in 6 hours as opposed to 7.5, which has the positive effect of reducing the phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion and also providing an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio) are really nice to have, allowing the more technically-attuned to be comforted in the invisible benefits to this watch.

What steals the show, therefore, are the blue, black, and gold PVD elements. When deployed next to the scattering of red rubies and topped by some surprisingly vivid yellow Western Arabic numerals, the effect is striking. Whether you like that effect or not will basically determine how you feel about this watch. 

Tech Specs: Richard Mille RM 17-02 Tourbillon Titanium

Movement: Manual-winding caliber RM17-02; 70-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; tourbillon; power reserve and function indicators
Case: 40.1mm × 48.15mm (13.08 mm thick); grade 5 titanium; water-resistant to 50m
Dial: Sapphire crystal with gold and blue PVD-treated bridges
Strap: Black canvas strap with leather inlay or blue rubber strap