There’s definitely something in the water… Less than a month since A. Lange & Söhne released the sumptuous Lange 1 and Little Lange 1 in a platinum case with an onyx dial (which we covered here and here), Breguet has released a new version of its Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 following a similar aesthetic pattern. To put simply, it is magnificent.

Aside from being an effortlessly elegant timepiece that simultaneously stacks an immense amount of mechanical complexity alongside some rather special artisanal finishing and bold decorative techniques while remaining demure, it might also have unwittingly stumbled into the role of brand ambassador at a time when Breguet sorely needs a fresh new direction.

Is it possible that this simple update to an existing model could change the fortunes of a brand that has struggled to whip up the excitement around its current collection that its founder and legacy deserve? It seems an odd thing to suggest, but let’s dive into it after after taking a quick look at the specs of this new addition to the Marine family.

How the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 works

The Marchante 5887 has long been seen as the flagship model of the Marine collection. Powered by the brand’s complicated Calibre 581DPE, it displays the time (hours, minutes, and seconds), the running equation of time, and a perpetual calendar. Additionally, an offset single-axis tourbillon sitting between four and six o’clock adds significant visual interest to an otherwise staid and serious dial.

The running equation of time may not be a complication with which many watch lovers are well-acquainted due to its rarity. In addition to it being quite complicated to execute, it is also one of the most esoteric and practically useless complications that exist. However, for that reason — for its very uselessness — it is also one of the truest embodiments of the “watchmaking spirit” that Breguet himself so tirelessly promoted throughout his life. I tend to define art as, “The pursuit of that which is not necessary, but has the ability to enrich our lives,” which I think fits this kind of complication well (along with many other curious habits of watchmakers such as their obsession with the moon and insisting on hand finishing hidden components that no one but future watchmakers charged with servicing said timepiece will ever see).

The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 displays the difference between the mean solar time (civil hours and minutes — the regular time by which we live our lives) and the true solar time (the time dictated by the earth’s rotation relative to the sun). It indicates the minutes of true solar time using the eye-catching centrally-mounted minute hand topped with a faceted golden sun (which provides a flash of colour amidst an otherwise monochromatic sea of components).

While the faceted golden sun atop the solar minute hand is my favourite element of this design, I must point out how satisfying the integration of the power reserve indicator between seven and nine o’clock is. Despite the significant load placed on this mechanism due to its many complications, Calibre 581DPE has an impressive power reserve of 80 hours.

Presenting a new Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 in black and platinum

The Marine Equation Marchante 5887 debuted in 2017 and was a striking new direction for the brand and its first real attempt to modernize the aesthetics of the brand. It came close, but perhaps the rich blue tones of the dials from the initial release (which came in both platinum and rose gold options) still gave off too opulent a vibe for watches that were clearly inspired by and nodding towards the ocean. Were they edgy enough? Aggressive enough? Did they have that little bit of bite that the brand desperately needs?

I’d say they were close, but this iteration of the Marchante 5887 with the 43.9 mm platinum case being paired with a black dial is proof the optimum combination had not been unearthed, until now.

This model, despite the only update being the colour of the dial, suddenly gives the whole Marine line a leader. This is a watch that looks like it means business. It shirks the brand’s tendency to lean into the regal, the refined, and the revered. Instead, it is a stunning slice of serious horology that looks ready to take on all-comers fearlessly, as the brand orientates itself towards new horizons under the leadership of Greg Kissling.

Tech Specs: Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887PT

Movement: Automatic-winding Caliber 581DPE; 80-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; 60-second tourbillon; perpetual calendar; solar minutes; power reserve indicator
Case: 43.9mm × 11.8m; platinum; water-resistant to 100m
Dial: White gold with black finishing, hand-guilloché “wave” motif
Strap: Black textured rubber