The last time Audemars Piguet mixed high-tech watchmaking with pop culture, they dove into the Marvel universe and it was a wild success. Starting with the Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Flying Tourbillon in 2021 and followed by the Spider-Man edition in 2023, AP brought superheroes to life with jaw-dropping, 3D character sculptures on their dials. These limited-edition pieces didn’t just flex AP’s insane craftsmanship, but they also introduced a new audience to haute horlogerie.

While some purists were skeptical, the Marvel collabs proved to be a game-changer, bridging the gap between comic-book fandom and high-end luxury. With its latest collaboration with Brian Donnelly — aka KAWS — now in the mix, the collaboration isn’t just about a watch, but it’s about creating something bold, collectible, and impossible to ignore. Think of it as a timepiece, a flex and wearable art all in one. KAWS’s rise from graffiti artist to global phenomenon is the stuff of legend. He started out tagging NYC bus stops before his limited-edition vinyl toys blew up in the late ’90s, especially in Japan. From there, it was all about huge sculptures, vibrant paintings, and collabs with brands like Nike and Comme des Garçons. Oh, and he also designed album covers for Kanye West. 

KAWS teaming up with Audemars Piguet is bringing some serious playful energy to haute horlogerie, but how does AP keep its reputation for technical brilliance while diving into bold, artsy collabs? “With every collaboration, we push ourselves technically,” explained Lucas Raggi, Audemars Piguet’s R&D Director.

“It’s not just about creating a cool watch. It has to challenge us to explore something entirely new. That’s what we did with Marvel, and this time, we’ve taken it even further. The real challenge? Balancing two creative worlds. Normally, we have 100% control over design and features. With a collab, there’s an external vision at play — someone with creativity but without our technical constraints. Reconciling those two sides — watchmaking precision and artistic freedom — is way harder than just tackling the technical challenges.”

The Journey of the Royal Oak Concept

For the last 50 years, Audemars Piguet has been all about redefining watchmaking, focusing more on pushing technical boundaries than sticking to a single design or shape. Back in 2002, they dropped the Concept Watch 1 (CW1) to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 30th anniversary and it was a total game-changer. Think of it as the watch world’s version of a concept car: daring, experimental, and packed with groundbreaking tech that teased the future of horology. 

Fast forward to today, the Concept line isn’t just a playground for wild ideas — it’s AP’s go-to space for technical innovation. From Marvel superheroes to Tamara Ralph’s elegance, and now KAWS’s playful energy, the line has evolved from niche experimentation to a symbol of Audemars Piguet’s biggest flexes. “The first Concept designed for the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak wasn’t meant to become a collection — it was a one-off, limited to 150 pieces,” explained Raggi. 

“But it opened a new chapter for exploration. We decided to use the Concept line as a platform to experiment with features, from unique ways of displaying indications to innovative materials and decorations. It’s a learning experience where we introduce our innovations, like the RD1, for example.”

The Concept line offered Audemars Piguet a unique opportunity to explore new frontiers in mechanisms, materials, and ergonomics, while also being one of the first watches without a traditional dial. The 2008 Concept Carbon pushed boundaries with forged carbon, titanium, and ceramic, all while offering a 237-hour power reserve and a pioneering function selector. In 2011, the Concept GMT streamlined this innovation, adding a GMT function for a more understated aesthetic. By 2015, AP tackled chronograph complexity with the Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher, introducing the caliber 2923, a single chronograph with independently controlled hands for lap timing. Each release has built upon the last, turning the Concept line into a dynamic platform for technical ingenuity and creative ambition.

One of the standout moments in the Concept line’s journey was the introduction of the Royal Oak Concept Acoustic Research RD1 in 2015. This was the watch that brought supersonnerie technology to the forefront, making it one of the loudest and finest minute repeaters out there. “We wanted to create a minute repeater that could be heard from 50 centimeters away, while still keeping it waterproof like a modern watch should be,” said Raggi.

“We also had to figure out how to reduce the noise of the regulator and control the sound without being affected by all the external variables. That’s why we launched the RD program to focus on game-changing technologies like this, pushing the limits of chiming watches for AP.”

“With the Code, we explore traditional mechanical functions with a modern twist. The Concept, on the other hand, is all about experimenting with materials and newer ways to tell time. You wouldn’t put an ultra-thin mechanism in a Concept — it belongs on the Royal Oak.”

Lucas Raggi, R&D Director at Audemars Piguet 

While AP chose the Code 11.59 to house its most complicated wristwatch — the Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4 — the approach to innovation is clear across its various collections, with each line following its own distinct path. “With the Code, we explore traditional mechanical functions with a modern twist. The Concept, on the other hand, is all about experimenting with materials and newer ways to tell time. You wouldn’t put an ultra-thin mechanism in a Concept — it belongs on the Royal Oak,” said Raggi. One standout in this exploration is the Concept Split Second Chronograph GMT Large Date, which presents the classic split-second chronograph mechanism with a fresh spin.

 “We wanted to combine the benefits of modern self-winding mechanisms while keeping the split-second display at the center,” said Raggi. This innovation allowed AP to preserve the traditional look and functionality of the split-second mechanism, while integrating self-winding technology for greater convenience, bridging the gap between the past and the present.

Looking to the future, Raggi emphasizes the growing role of materials and movement architecture in the Concept line’s evolution. “We’ve increased our capacity for material development, and we have a lot of ideas in mind,” he revealed. “We’re also exploring new territories in movement architecture that sometimes require more space.”

This focus on innovation and exploration has allowed Audemars Piguet to continually push the limits of high horology. Over the years, the brand has proven that it doesn’t just adapt — it elevates every collaboration, seamlessly blending high art with revolutionary technology to create pieces that shine in the most striking and impactful ways.