It has become an annual tradition for Genevan watchmaker Vacheron Constantin to unveil its thematic métiers d’art collection, much to the delight of watch and culture enthusiasts. Eight months into the year, the brand has now revealed its latest creation: the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbol collection – a quartet of watches inspired by the ancient Chinese “Seawater Cliff” motif.

Metiers d’Art of Chinese traditional symbols

It’s not uncommon for watch brands to pay tribute to traditional symbols from various civilizations. However, these creations often rely on the more commonly recognized elements of a particular culture, which may not always be the most intriguing or significant aspects. For example, many Chinese-themed watches feature typical symbols like dragons or phoenixes, but Chinese traditional culture and philosophy run much deeper than these familiar motifs.

The latest quartet from Vacheron Constantin immediately piqued my interest. It’s different. It feels like the brand has taken a new direction, steering away from the more predictable path. The “Seawater Cliff” pattern reflects a deeper understanding of Chinese culture, precisely because it isn’t something widely known. In fact, this represents a deliberate new direction for the brand, standing in stark contrast to the dragon-themed Métiers d’Art watches it debuted earlier this year.

“We wanted to explore traditional Chinese symbolism for this new Métiers d’Art series,” says Christian Selmoni, the Style & Heritage Director of Vacheron Constantin. He continues, “The aim was to complement the existing offerings often found on watch dials celebrating Chinese New Year.”

To achieve this, the brand truly sought out the best expertise from China. When Vacheron Constantin took an interest in the decorations of ancient palaces, they contacted Mr. Song, a former researcher and scholar at the Palace Museum in Beijing, specializing in Chinese symbolism. Mr. Song was flown to the brand’s manufacture in Geneva, where, in collaboration with the art team, the “Seawater Cliff” motif was brought to life.

And the brand really did bring in the best from China to complete this task. When Vacheron Constantin found the decoration of ancient palaces to be interesting, it contacted Mr. Song, a former researcher and scholar at the Imperial Palace in Beijing, and a specialist in Chinese symbolism. Mr. Song was flown to the brand’s manufacture in Geneva, and through working with the art team there, the “Seawater Cliff” motif emerged.

An interpretation of Chinese motifs

In ancient China, decorations on daily wares and paintings often fell into two distinct categories. The first comprises symbols of high virtues, such as the Four Gentlemen plants, which embody various ideal human qualities. The second category expresses wishes for prosperity and peace, exemplified by the “Seawater Cliff” motif.

The “Seawater Cliff” motif, or 海水江崖纹 (hǎishuǐ jiāngyá wén) in Mandarin, features a simple yet evocative design, with its name reflecting its essence — a pattern of mountains and water intertwined. While both mountains and water are common symbols in ancient Chinese art, their combination in this intertwined manner became prominent only during the Ming dynasty, the second-to-last imperial dynasty before the Qing dynasty.

In ancient China, the term 江山 (jiāngshān), meaning “mountain and river,” symbolized the world and carried connotations of peace. Hence, the “Seawater Cliff” motif signifies 江山永固 (jiāngshān yǒnggù), or everlasting peace. Additionally, the motif implies 山水相依 (shānshuǐ xiāngyī), representing the interdependence of mountain and water, symbolizing mutual support and enduring companionship.

This significance is evident in historical artefacts. For instance, during the Yongle era of the Ming dynasty, when the Forbidden City (now known as the Imperial Palace or Palace Museum) was constructed, an oversized porcelain incense burner adorned with the Seawater Cliff motif in blue and white was placed in the palace. Used in important national ceremonies, this incense burner underscores the motif’s cultural importance. 

As a side note, the Forbidden City, now over 600 years old, has undergone numerous changes and restorations over the centuries. Despite these many reconstructions, this particular porcelain incense burner has been a constant since the palace’s inception. This artifact, as old as the palace itself, truly lives up to the meaning of the motif.

The “Seawater Cliff” motif can also be seen in various locations, including palace decorations. For example, engraved stones featuring the motif are embedded in the stairs leading up to the Hall of Preserving Harmony, one of the three main halls of the Outer Court in the Forbidden City.

Additionally, the motif appeared on royal garments, such as the Dragon robes worn by the emperor, embroidered on the sleeves and along the hem of the silk robes.

Creating the “Seawater Cliff” patterns

Vacheron Constantin presents two distinct interpretations of the “Seawater Cliff” pattern, each one uniquely captivating. The first is a vibrant design, while the second is a more subtle version. The former represents the day, while the latter evokes the night. Interestingly, this dual interpretation is rooted in history. In ancient China, both versions of the “Seawater Cliff “pattern existed. The colorful pattern was more prevalent, symbolizing prosperity, whereas the more subdued version was rarer.

As part of the Métiers d’Art collection, the highlight of the watch naturally goes beyond the dial’s pattern to the craftsmanship of its decoration. And it certainly doesn’t disappoint.

For the first watch, “Eternal Flow”, with its colorful dial, the decoration is executed in cloisonné enamel. Introduced to China during the Yuan dynasty and refined during the Jingtai era of the Ming dynasty, cloisonné enamel, also known as Jingtai Blue ware, is a historically appropriate choice for depicting the “Seawater Cliff” pattern.

According to Vacheron Constantin, 220 individual gold wires were painstakingly attached to the dial to outline the pattern, a process that took 50 hours to complete. Another 70 hours were dedicated to creating the colorful enamel dial, involving meticulous painting, firing, and polishing. The result is nothing short of stunning. The interplay of bright and dark colors creates a strong contrast, evoking the sense of viewing a beautiful planet in the vast universe. Combined with the traditional pattern, it conveys both historical magnificence and the ancient perspective on the universe.

The decoration extends beyond the dial. For instance, the bezel is hand-engraved with a stylized “bat” motif, symbolizing prosperity. Additionally, the 22k rotor is engraved with the Seawater Cliff pattern, ensuring an attractive view from all angles.

The second version, dubbed “Moonlight Silvers”, is more subdued in color but equally intricate in its decoration techniques. The dial begins with a base that is either hollowed out or raised to create the Seawater Cliff pattern. The flat areas are then filled with blue enamel.

Interestingly, after firing, the blue enamel is hand-engraved to create a wavy pattern. The tiny curls of this wave pattern are then filled with white enamel and fired again. The metal areas of the “Seawater Cliff” pattern are set with diamonds to add an exotic sparkle, and the bezel is also adorned with diamonds.

If “Eternal Flow” represents the day, then “Moonlight Silvers” is made for the night. Notably, the Chinese press kit reveals another layer of naming for these watches. The former is named 日涌乾坤 (Rì Yǒng Qiánkūn), which translates to “The Sun Pouring Over the World,” while the latter is called 月耀星河 (Yuè Yào Xīnghé), meaning “Moonlight Over the Galaxy.” This naming more accurately captures the day-and-night complement between the two. Additionally, one might view the former as more masculine and the latter as more feminine. Both versions are available in either white or rose gold, making the collection a complete quartet.

Vacheron Constantin’s expanding world of metiers d’art

In a world where competition between the East and West is increasingly prominent, it is refreshing to see meaningful exchanges between these civilizations through art. The “Tribute to Traditional Symbols” collection by Vacheron Constantin is a prime example of this, blending Eastern and Western traditions into high-quality pieces.

More broadly, the “Tribute to Traditional Symbols” collection celebrates the historical exchange of knowledge between ancient cultures. Historian Arun Bala highlights how modern science emerged from the interplay of ideas across civilizations — where knowledge from India, China, the Middle East, and the West converged to shape contemporary science. It is inspiring to witness this cultural exchange continue today, facilitated by the collaboration between the Swiss watchmaker and Chinese researchers. I hope this fusion of traditions will inspire new artisanal techniques and styles, much like the evolution of Jingtai Blue enamel in China.

Finally, Vacheron Constantin’s decision to move beyond familiar Chinese patterns in its tribute collection deserves recognition. Looking ahead, it would be compelling to see future collections explore traditional Chinese values and styles more deeply, particularly those that emphasize profound virtues over mere prosperity. The essence of Chinese culture is deeply rooted in designs that embrace simplicity, as exemplified by the elegance of calligraphy as well as paintings of modest subjects like orchids. 

However, achieving such subtle beauty is inherently challenging, requiring both technical mastery and deep philosophical insight. Additionally, there is a challenge in appealing to a market that often favors more elaborate designs over understated elegance. Balancing these elements will be crucial for the future of artisanal craftsmanship in the luxury market. If Vacheron Constantin succeeds in this, it will set a distinctive example among its Swiss métiers peers.