TAG Heuer’s ongoing quest for the perfect Aquaracer continues. The brand’s dive watch collection seems to get a makeover with regularity, and the latest brings some welcome updates. The new Aquaracer Professional 300 now has a smaller diameter, an upgraded movement, a watery new dial texture — and it comes in three-hand Date as well as GMT variants.

This isn’t a revamp of the entire Aquaracer collection. Among the different lines and sizes that comprise the broader family, the Aquaracer Professional 300 represents a more serious dive watch with a deeper depth rating and beefier case (only the lone Professional 1000 model beating it in seriositude). If you’re partial to the Professional 200 with its 40mm case, for example, you can still get it. But if you were looking for a Professional 300 that’s more wearable, more distinctive in style and with a better movement — here it is.

Today’s Aquaracer is rooted in dive watches produced even before Heuer gained its TAG prefix (1985) or the collection its Aquaracer moniker (2004). They appeared in the late 1970s and were conceived under the brand’s visionary leader Jack Heuer as series Professional 1000, 2000, etc. These divers have held a fascination for me for their thinness, nostalgia, and since I noticed the likes of Barack Obama and Steven Colbert wearing them — the very ’90s look of those with steel bezels and rider tabs, especially.

The modern collection is much more contemporary-feeling. Before seeing the new Aquaracers in person, two primary elements that caused some initial skepticism were the size and the new dial pattern. But we joined TAG to try out the new watches on Flying Nikka sailboats and roughing it along the coast of Tuscany — and both the size and dial have won me over. Here are our impressions and what you need to know about the collection.

42mm is better than 43mm

The new Professional 300 retains its eponymous 300m depth rating but manages to reduce the case from 43mm to 42mm wide. It seems like an insignificant change, but many watch fans will understand 42 to be at the upper end of “midsize” while 43 is firmly in “bigun” territory. A millimeter surely can make a difference.

We’d hasten to point out, however, that even for those who think they prefer 38, 39, 40mm diameters, certain watches are actually best at diameters such as 42mm. In the end, it comes down to your own wrists and tastes, as well as the watch’s ergonomics and other elements. For me and my 17cm/6.5in wrists, the 42mm Aquaracers fit perfectly.

One feature of the Aquaracer that’s always been attractive is its relative thinness for a dive watch. Its new iteration is even thinner (if marginally), losing 0.5mm for a wearable 12mm thickness. Though the GMT models share the same diameter and 48mm lug-to-lug measurements with the Date, a bit more thickness results from the added components and extra second-time-zone-tracking functionality, clocking in at 13.45mm.

A movement upgrade goes a long way

The combination of a new size and movement makes this a significant update to the Aquaracer Professional 300. Previously equipped with a Sellita-based Caliber 5, the new models all feature an automatic movement called the TH31-00 developed by TAG in collaboration with the company AMT — a manufacturer owned by Sellita which produces high-end custom or bespoke movements for third parties.

First introduced in the Professional 1000 and then in the gold Professional 200 model at Watches & Wonders this year, the rollout continues as the entire 300 range is now equipped with this movement (or a GMT version of it called the TH31-03). The movements are COSC chronometer-certified and boast 80-hour power reserves. The upgrade adds considerable value and interest in a price segment where TAG looks poised to compete with the likes of the Tudor Black Bay (GMT). It’d be great to see the same treatment of the Professional 200, which would bring it into closer competition with the Black Bay 58 (and, of course, the new 58 GMT, respectively).

The new wavy dial pattern is a nice touch

The long familiar teak-inspired horizontal stripes of the Aquaracer dial have now gone a bit wavy. They’ve given way to an irregular, watery pattern which at first made me think of the Omega Seamaster Diver based on the press images. I was skeptical.

But seeing the watches in person makes a completely different impression. They’re much subtler than promotional pictures suggest, and they offer an attractive texture when the light catches them or you take the time to notice.

Even subtler than the new dial pattern is the update to the minute/seconds track. It’s simplified, with only four hashes (instead of nine) and triangles (instead of squares). This element doesn’t seem to change much, but minimalism and simplicity are en vogue.

That’s a good thing, in my opinion, and though these new Aquaracers can’t really be described as pure, minimalist tool watches, the dial’s pattern is quite nicely executed and attractive. Different models come in black, blue and green colorways, while the GMT is blue or green with bicolor ceramic bezels (black-and-blue “batman” or black and green, respectively).

A new hour hand reflects thoughtful design

More subtle changes on the dial. Like the existing Professional 300 watches, the hour hand has a wider shape to help distinguish it from the minute hand for improved legibility. It now has a slightly tweaked design to echo the TAG Heuer shield-shaped logo. Divided into two lumed sections further differentiates it from the minute hand and boosts legibility, and that’s always a win in my book.

The GMT version will be a crowd-pleaser

While the Date dive watches are the core of the new collection, the Professional 300 GMT is perhaps the flagship product of the release. As noted above, its dimensions are the same as the Date (except for a little added thickness) and the movement inside is a variant of that found in the Date, but this version of it actually represents some newness. Like the ETA-based movement it replaces in previous versions of the Professional 300 GMT, this is a “caller.” That means you can adjust the 24-hour GMT hand, rather than the “flyer” style where you adjust the hour hand.

Tech Specs: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date

Movement: Automatic-winding TH31-00; 80-hour power reserve; COSC certified
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; date
Case: 42mm x 12mm x 48mm; stainless steel; water-resistant up to 300m
Dial: Black, blue, or green sunray with wave pattern
Strap: Steel or rubber
Price: CHF 3,700 (bracelet); CHF 3,500 (strap)
Availability: June 2024

Tech Specs: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT

Movement: Automatic-winding TH31-03; 80-hour power reserve; COSC certified
Functions: Hours and minutes; central seconds; GMT
Case: 42mm x 13.45mm x 48mm; stainless steel; water-resistant up to 300m
Dial: Blue or green sunray with wave pattern
Strap: Steel or rubber
Price: CHF 4,100 (bracelet); CHF 3,900 (strap)
Availability: June 2024