Seiko is known for certain qualities: rock-solid build, reliable movements, strong value, and the impeccable finishing of its higher-tier products, among many other things. One of its most celebrated characteristics, however, is its approach to dials. The brand can famously take a restrained design and make it completely arresting thanks to a texture, technique, or other unique treatment of the dial. This new creation in the Presage Craftsmanship Series is one of the best recent examples of that which we can think of.

For years, the watchmaking industry has vacillated on what makes “the perfect dial.” Some will argue for the importance of the specific shade chosen for the time display’s background. Some advocate for visual “depth,” prioritising multiple levels above all else. Others favour a novel texture to add visual interest. Regardless of your preference, almost everyone can agree that whatever a brand does to distinguish its wares, legibility should never be sacrificed.

Oftentimes, those that make the biggest waves in any of these categories command premium prices thanks to hand-finishing, interesting plating processes, and multi-component dials. Who has always done well when it comes to offering its fans superior craftsmanship at a reasonable price? It’s Seiko, of course. Just take a look at the stunning new Seiko Presage SPB445.

Before we address the star of the show (the dial), it is worthwhile commenting on the movement. Although the quoted timekeeping parameters of the 6R5H (+25/-15 seconds per day) are very conservative compared to the actual performance we expect, the 72-hour power reserve is a huge selling point. It means you can lay this sleek, business-appropriate piece down on Friday evening after work and expect it to be ready for the office again when you wake up on Monday morning. It’s often a bonus to be able to observe the well-finished movement through the open caseback, and it’ll be especially appreciated by those who are newer to the hobby.

With a diameter of 40.6 mm, a height of 12.5 mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 49.1 mm reference SPB445 lands in the “Goldilocks” range and is likely to wear well on a huge range of wrist sizes. Crafted from stainless steel and treated with an ultra-hard coating, it is more than prepared to stand up to regular wear and, if Seiko’s previous models treated to and with this coating have shown, is likely to look fresh for much longer than an uncoated watch with similarly polished surfaces.

And now, to the dial… This is where Seiko has flexed its muscles. To simply describe this dial as “porcelain” doesn’t do it justice. A translucent coating has been applied to the pure white (“Hakuji”) surface of the dial, made in the Japanese town of Arita under the watchful eye of master craftsman Hiroyuki Hashiguchi and his team, giving it a beguiling visual depth that requires multiple looks to fully appreciate. This slight distance between the porcelain itself and the simple bar markings chosen to not distract from the unique luster of the material means that the indicating scale around the dial’s outer edge seems to hover just above the display.

Most notable, however, is not this “floating” scale, but rather the multiple curvatures of the dial’s surface, bending first from the outer edge down to a physically depressed, almost fluted inner scale, intersected by a recessed 24-hour subdial, and up again towards the dial’s center. These transitions could have appeared jarring or abrupt if rendered in another material, but here in Arita porcelain, the effect works perfectly. It is a remarkable composition recalling fine, high-end pieces from celebrated Swiss companies.

Lacquered blue hands provide contrast and complement the dial well — the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands paired to a needle-like seconds hand which sports a crescent-moon-shaped counterpoise. The tips of the minute and seconds hands bend down towards the dial to aid with legibility, creating the optical illusion of an even smoother sweep and adding a real vintage flavor to the piece.

Eagle-eyed aficionados will notice the five split-second markers in between each of the dial’s 60 minute markers. Although two split-second markings immediately before and after an hour indicator (and three before and after the double bar marker at 12) are omitted to create enough space for the indexes to breathe, the frequency of the markings amounts to a theoretical 360 points of indication per hour, which is exactly how many times caliber 6R5H ticks every 60 minutes thanks to its 21,600vph operating frequency. This was most likely chosen to extend the power reserve to the healthy 72 hours mentioned previously.

Thoughtful, highly logical design decisions like this are exactly what draw people to Seiko and hold their attention and enthusiasm for so long. Paired with the true artistry of the porcelain dial, it is hard to objectively fault this watch. At $1,900, it sits among the premium range of Seiko’s catalogue, and yet it still represents remarkable value and a surprising degree of versatility.

Tech Specs: Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain SPB445

Movement: Seiko 6R5H automatic
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Case: 40.6mm; stainless steel with super-hard coating; water resistant to 100m
Dial: Arita porcelain
Strap: Stainless steel with super-hard coating
Price: USD 1,900

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