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In conversation with: Benoît Mintiens and the evolution of Ressence

by Katherine Arteche . Dec 13, 2023

In conversation with: Benoît Mintiens and the evolution of Ressence

Ressence is getting bolder. From their first colorful Type 3 that made its debut at Geneva Watch Days this year, Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens talks about life as an independent watch brand in a world where now it’s cool to be indie.

In the world of haute horlogerie, where tradition often reigns supreme, Ressence has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking innovation. At Geneva Watch Days, the indie watch brand introduced the Type 3 EE, adding a eucalyptus green design to their monochromatic lineup.

From the moment you lay your eyes on it, the TYPE 3 EE exudes forward-thinking design and exceptional legibility, but it’s the refreshing burst of color that truly captivates. The soft green hue adds an unconventional twist to the award-winning TYPE 3, conjuring images of lush forests and outdoor adventures.

Ressence is not just your quirky indie watch anymore. It’s clever, creative, and bold. But did its Founder, Benoît Mintiens, ever meant to make it as innovative, or as some may argue, complicated?

“When I started Ressence 13 yrs ago, there were already innovative players such as MB&F, Urwerk, and De Bethune. But those are the survivors,” said Mintiens, in conversation with REVOLUTION‘s Group Editor-in-Chief, Celine Yap.

“There were a lot of others that you don’t hear about anymore. Collectors took huge risks by investing in brands that disappeared.

“The ones that survived, gave a certain credibility to the term “indie watchmaking”. To a certain extent, the larger corporations opened the doors for us by allowing us to fill the gaps that they left — waiting for watch allocations etc. and collectors started to discover us.

“What happens is it takes just one — one person to buy one of our watches. When they turn up to their watch clubs, they became that guy who was interesting.”

The future is Ressence

It wasn’t long after until Ressence adopted this colorful evolution to its other models, namely the TYPE 1º.

This TYPE 1° M Multicolour Edition is an autumnal twist to its TYPE 1 Round collection. Launched earlier this year, this new addition showcases Ressence’s commitment to infusing time with not just precision but also a burst of energetic hues.

This TYPE 1° M embraces a playful aesthetic, diverging from the traditional monochrome approach that Ressence is known for. This multicolour marvel features contrasting yet harmonious tones of red, blue, yellow, and green on the hour, minute, second, and weekday discs.

At Dubai Watch Week, Ressence debuted the TYPE 1°Round DX3, a special edition made in collaboration with UAE leading retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons. The stunning piece weaves the intricate patterns of Arabic mosaics with the precision of cloisonné watchmaking.

“I don’t care that people don’t care or know what’s in the watch,” said Mintiens. “Ressence’s approach is that we start from the outside.

“We focus on the interactions, then we move on to the insides — how does it work? That’s why the dial of a Ressence is the complete surface of the watch. It has nearly 400 components but I’m not gonna bother you with it.”

Reading time on the Ressence Type 3

Now, here at REVOLUTION, we do care about what’s going on on the inside.

Time displayed on a Ressence watch has always intrigued me – it’s almost smartwatch-like. I mean, can you blame me? With a crisp display like that, who would’ve thought that it was just all oil?

When the TYPE 3 launched in 2013, it was immediately deemed a horological revelation (winning that prize at the GPHG that year), being the first oil-filled mechanical watch. Its edge-to-edge sapphire crystal, resembling a polished pebble, provides a tactile delight and exceptional readability from all angles by canceling out light distortion.

Ressence Type 3 (2013)

The upper chamber of houses 3.75 ml of oil, creating a magnified projection effect that makes information appear as if displayed directly on the glass. This revolutionary technology ensures crystal-clear visibility even in low-light conditions, thanks to 100% grade A Super-LumiNova® filling all engraved indications.

While the oil offers clarity, it’s sensitive to temperature fluctuations. Ressence’s innovative Bellow System compensates for this, maintaining an even pressure within the watch, preventing any adverse effects on performance.

New pastel colors are adopted on the temperature guage.

Represented by a temperature gauge on the dial, this system is as visually striking as it is functional. The watch’s survival range is between 10°C to 40°C, which, as indicated on the Type EE for example, is within the white zone. Anything more or less, i.e. 55°C and -5°C, respectively indicated in the yellow and blue zones, would put the watch in trouble.

Additionally, the oil lubricates all components of the watch, resulting in minimal friction and reduced weight for the movement.

Benoît Mintiens

“A watch is an avatar of you,” mused Mintiens. “You’re not always the same person. So it’s logical that sometimes you feel more sporty or more dressed, etcetera.

“What I’ve observed today is that a tech owner will start to buy Ressence. What I also see is that we get more people buying Ressence who never wear watches.

“They’re not attracted to watchmaking, but are attracted to products.

“I’m a designer, not a watchmaker. I care about you. So what do you care about? What do you expect from something on your wrist?”

Tech Specs: Ressence Type 3 EE

Movement: Patented ROCS 3 – Ressence Orbital Convex System driven by a customized 2824/2 calibre; 36-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; Seconds; Date; Days of the week; Oil temperature
Case: 44mm; Grade 5 titanium; Double-domed sapphire crystal front and back; Water-resistant to 10 meters
Dial: Convex grade 5 titanium discs; Engraved indications filled with green grade A Super-LumiNova®
Strap: Honeycomb strap with titanium ardillon buckle
Price: CHF38,200 (excluding taxes)

Tech Specs: Ressence TYPE 1° M

Movement: Patented ROCS 1.3 – Ressence Orbital Convex System – module driven by the minute axle of a customised 2892 base calibre; 36-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; seconds; date; days of the week
Case: 42.7mm; Grade 5 titanium; Double-domed sapphire crystal front and back; Water-resistant to 10 meters
Dial: Convex German silver dial; Engraved indications filled with grade A Super-LumiNova®
Strap: Light grey rubber strap with titanium ardillon buckle
Price: CHF16,800 (excluding taxes)

Tech Specs: Ressence TYPE 1° Round DX3

Movement: Patented ROCS 1.3 – Ressence Orbital Convex System – module driven by the minute axle of a customised 2892 base calibre; 36-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; seconds; date; days of the week
Case: 42.7mm; Grade 5 titanium; Double-domed sapphire crystal front and back; Water-resistant to 10 meters
Dial: Convex German silver dial with cloisonné filled with Super-LumiNova® and coated with rose gold
Strap: Beige rubber strap with ardillon buckle
Price: CHF23,600 (excluding taxes)