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Louis Vuitton Puts Its Mastery of Fine Watchmaking on Full Display with the New ‘Escale à Asnières’ Pocket Watch
Louis Vuitton Puts Its Mastery of Fine Watchmaking on Full Display with the New ‘Escale à Asnières’ Pocket Watch
Louis Vuitton started building its reputation back in 1854 when it began making trunks for Napoleon III. By the turn of the century, the maison’s leather goods had secured icon status, gracing prominent figures from Audrey Hepburn to Jackie Kennedy. Exceptional materials, high level of craftsmanship, instantly recognizable aesthetic codes, and collectability have long been at the core of Louis Vuitton’s DNA. Though the brand’s expansion into the world of horology in 1988 came as a bit of a departure from its rich history in the realm of high fashion, LV clearly had the foundational ethos to resonate with the watch community.
Still, it would be about 15 years before the maison would start to establish itself as more than just a producer of fashion watches. In 2002, Louis Vuitton founded its own dedicated department of high watchmaking and that same year introduced what has since become one of its most iconic models: the Tambour. Over the next decade, LV would continue to make strides with the acquisition of La Fabrique du Temps (a high-concept movement manufacture) and Léman Cadran (a specialist dial maker). Soon after, the maison would develop its own top of the line manufacturing facility dedicated to high watchmaking in the heart of the horological universe just outside Geneva. Since then, Louis Vuitton has firmly established itself as a major player in watches. It’s garnered multiple accolades from the GPHG, collaborated with exceptional independent watchmakers, tapped some of the most prominent artisans in the industry, and even created its own Watch Prize for Independent Creatives.
In the past year alone, we’ve seen LV unveil some remarkable timepieces highlighting its level of achievement in the way of technical skill and artistic craft, from tourbillons and jumping hours to automata and métiers d’art pieces. Now, the maison puts its mastery of fine watchmaking on full display with the new Escale à Asnières pocket watch, marking the first pocket watch produced by the brand to be presented publicly. This incredible timepiece pays tribute to the savoir-faire and unique history of two pillars of the brand: the legendary trunkmaking workshop, Asnières, and La Fabrique du Temps.
Housed in the confines of a 50mm 18K pink gold case, Louis Vuitton has encapsulated its technical know-how and artistic aptitude. Here you have a minute repeater movement and automata mechanism of seven animations enhanced by outstanding métier d’arts including gold engraving and enameling. Within the limited real estate of the dial, LV has managed to render its historic trunk making workshop in the backdrop. Layered in the foreground is a 19th century horse-drawn delivery carriage full of Louis Vuitton trunks, taking elements from an 1887 Louis Vuitton advertisement and a portrait of three generations of the Vuitton family at Asnières from 1888.
To render these intricate designs, the maison enlisted the expertise of master engraver, Dick Steenman, and master enameller, Anita Porchet. It took Steenman three weeks to engrave the dial alone. Then there’s the engraved caseback, which is equally statement making with a similar horsedrawn carriage to that on the reverse yet providing contrast to the enameled version. In addition to the engraving, the background of the dial also features a special guilloche pattern with sunrays that radiate from the central diamond-set sun. All of this metalwork lays the canvas for Porchet’s enamel work consisting of a whopping 35 different hues and more than 20 firings.
Powering the Escale à Asnières pocket watch is the caliber LFT AU14.01, which pays homage to the jacquemart minute repeaters that LV has created over the years, for example the GPHG award-winning Tambour Carpe Diem and Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater that marked the maison’s 200th anniversary. This particular movement uses a cathedral gong, the most sophisticated tone in chiming watches offering both a longer and lower sound compared to a traditional chime. In addition, thanks to the jacquemart mechanism, the timepiece is capable of lifelike movement.
Here, the horse’s hooves clop as the carriage wheels turn, the miniature coachman springs to action with his arms raised, and stacks of Louis Vuitton trunks pop open revealing tiny monogram flowers. The entire scene is overlooked by a rotating sun at twelve o’clock that’s set with an LV Monogram Star cut diamond, the smallest LV-cut stone the maison has ever created.
This breathtaking timekeeper is, of course, delivered in none other than its own custom Louis Vuitton trunk executed in exotic green leather to complement the dial. Tucked inside the drawers of the trunk, you’ll find the timepiece’s various accessories: an 18K pink gold pocket watch chain, travel pouch, and magnifying loupe as well as the certificate and book that details the journey of this masterpiece.
Tech Specs: Louis Vuitton ‘Escale à Asnières’ Pocket Watch
Movement: Manual-winding LFT AU14.01 caliber; 100-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; Jacquemart mechanism with seven animations; minute repeater
Case: 50mm × 16.7mm; 18K pink gold with diamond bezel; 30m water resistance
Dial: 18K yellow gold hand engraved with enamel and gem setting
Price: Upon Request
Louis Vuitton