Reviews
The Rise and Rise of Microbrands
The Rise and Rise of Microbrands
If you think a pair of Air Jordans is hard to buy at retail, then consider this: for some of the independent microbrands like Kurono and Ming, each new product drop is sold out within minutes! (But of course, you are welcome to pick them up from eBay or Chrono24 for double or triple the original price.)
Ming
Ming Thein
In 2016, his training in mathematics (he graduated from University of Oxford in 2003 with a Master’s degree in physics at the age of 16) and his passion for horology intersected with the changes in accessibility to watch manufacturing and direct-to-customer sales, and he shifted gears to join a group of friends in co-founding MING. Later that year, they began in earnest to create their first watch, the 17.01.
Co-founders of Ming: YF Chek, Chan Kin Meng, Ming Thein, Praneeth Rajsingh and Jacky Lim (Image: Ming)
MING's first releases, the 17.01 in grade 5 titanium with blue and anthracite dial from 2016
The Ming 17.01 and 19.01 series have experimented with various case materials, complications and movements. However, according to Ming Thein, there are certain key features that remain consistent in all Ming watches — strong symmetry, flared lugs, curved strap ends, legibility, and distinct minute and hour hands; elements that beget visual layering so the watches can look very different under different lighting conditions; a distinctive luminous signature; crowns that are easy to interact with; and wearing balance and comfort.
The key features of Ming watches are strong symmetry, flared lugs, curved strap ends, legibility, and distinct minute and hour hands. Seen here is the Ming 27.02.
The key features of Ming watches are strong symmetry, flared lugs, curved strap ends, legibility, and distinct minute and hour hands. Seen here is the Ming 27.02.
Kurono
Kurono
In a move that surprised the industry and delighted his fans, Hajime Asaoka decided to create his first watch for mass production in 2019. Combining his years of experience in custom design work and watchmaking skills, as well as the affordability of a Miyota movement, Asaoka created the first Kurono in a limited run of 50 pieces over two dial variants at the very reasonable price of only USD1,750. These were sold out within a blink of an eye.
Kurono watches take their cues from the 1960s Art Deco designs of vintage watches. Seen here is the Kurono Grand: Akane featuring urushi dial.
Kurono Classic Reiwa
Asaoka has made his name by creating custom art timepieces, each one a collaboration between the artist and the client.
Asaoka created the first Kurono in a limited run of 50 pieces over two dial variants at a price of USD1,750.
Kurono watches take their cues from the 1960s Art Deco designs of vintage watches. Some of the features include cylinder dials with high-gloss and applied indices, box sapphire crystal, 37–38mm stainless-steel cases, and the strikingly polished and stylized hands.
Ophion
Ophion
He went on to study Architecture in Madrid and develop the skills of tridimensional design that would lend itself well to the day when he transitioned to making his own watches. A classmate from university, Huberto Aldaz, had been a fellow aficionado and they often joked about turning Ribas’s passion for horology into a new watch brand.
The OPH 786 Velos has its roots in Art Deco design
The base movement used by Ophion OPH 786 Velos is the same as the two previous watches of the brand, a proprietary movement made by Soprod with a five-day power reserve.
The base movement used by Ophion OPH 786 Velos is the same as the two previous watches of the brand, a proprietary movement made by Soprod with a five-day power reserve.
Their first model, the OPH 960, is a contemporary interpretation of the vintage watches of the ’60s with their dome dials, domed crystal and domed hands. That first watch was followed by the OPH 786, which drew inspiration from the pocket watches of the 1780s; and the OPH 786 Velos with roots in Art Deco design.
Laine Watches
Laine Watches
Disappointed by the purely theoretical work, Laine took his education into his own hands and began to build his first clock from a set of plans. With the help of his teachers and the resources of the school, he completed his education — and his clock — in three years.
In 2014, Laine was chosen to participate in a Lange & Söhne competition for students to complete the design for a moon-phase complication. Inspired by the differences in how the moon appears around the globe, he worked to complete an innovative design that would win him a 10,000 euros prize. He used it to buy tools to continue his work with watchmaking.
The Laine V38 based on the Vaucher 5401 micro-rotor automatic movement
The G3 dial has three primary parts – centre, seconds and chapter ring; each of these can be rendered in different materials, providing a plethora of dial variations.
The LA18.1 ‘Signature’ movement
Laine recently released the Gelidus 3, which brings his work with guilloché and frosting together in a wide variety of colors, as well as the V38, based on the Vaucher 5401 micro-rotor automatic movement.
Sartory Billard
Sartory Billard
Using the design tools that he’s mastered over the years, he works closely with his clients to bring their sense of style and horological passions into the sketches for the timepiece. Each watch is a unique creation from the dial to the strap, and Billard is able to create six to eight watches each month in his personal workshop.
A Sartory Billard watch takes about half a year from start to finish, and includes the kind of personal touches that can only be captured in a close collaboration.
The: SB04 Burgundy polished titanium dial and Breguet numerals
The SB04 Meteorite dial and lume indexes
The customer has a choice between a stainless-steel or titanium case, and prices start at around USD3,000 for a custom timepiece. Dials are crafted from polished titanium and are offered in colors such as burgundy, blue and purple. Additionally, Comblémine Voutilainen produces special stone and guilloché dials for Sartory Billard.
