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Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches & Wonders 2024: All the New Models

by Lee Sheng . Apr 10, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches & Wonders 2024: All the New Models

A technical showcase with multi-gear trains, multi-axes tourbillons, and multi-complications.

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre returns to what it’s best known for – creating complicated watches, and so the new collection for the year is a slew of high-end watches that flex the muscle of the Le Sentier watchmaker. Specifically, this year saw a refreshed Duometre lineup, the brand’s signature collection of twin-gear trains watches. Here’s a handy guide to the new collection:

Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

The standout release this year – and also the flagship model for the Duometre lineup – is undoubtedly the Heliotourbillon Perpetual. With the new cal. 388, this marks the first time that JLC has made a triple-axis tourbillon, and one that’s notably interesting because of its unusual spherical hairspring. This achievement propels JLC into rarefied air, as few triple-axis tourbillons exist, let alone with a spherical hairspring – one notable example being the MB&F LM Thunderdome.

The first two tourbillon cages each have a period of 30 seconds, while the third has a period of one minute. It's worth noting the cylindrical hairspring.

What sets this JLC apart from competitors are two key factors. The first pertains to its gear train construction, which is where the Duometre designation becomes relevant. The Duometre collection centers on a twin-gear train construction. This means it incorporates an independent barrel and gear train for timekeeping functions, as well as another set for additional complications. Despite this separation, both barrels and gear trains are linked to the same escapement, serving as the beating heart of the timepiece. The rationale behind this design is to mitigate disruptions in timekeeping accuracy caused by complications such as chronographs and calendars, which often draw sudden energy from the gear train.

Second, it features not only a multi-axis tourbillon but also a perpetual calendar. Notably, the date display utilizes twin large discs for the two digits, commonly referred to as a “big date”, while the year indicator boasts a four-digit display for maximum clarity.

In addition to its technical complexity, the new Duometre also shines in terms of design. Firstly, the case design has been completely revamped, featuring a round shape with robust lugs that distinctively break away from the case. While reminiscent of the stately appearance of a Lange case, the Duometre case has a livelier finish, incorporating a blend of polishing, brushing, and graining.

Another notable design feature is found on the dial, which balances both symmetrical and asymmetrical elements. The asymmetry arises from the placement of the time display, occupying two-thirds of the right side of the dial, with the tourbillon occupying the remaining third on the left. Meanwhile, symmetry is achieved through the positioning of the perpetual calendar and power reserve displays, ensuring a visually balanced composition.

The Heliotourbillon gets a special case with a sapphire window on the left flank to provide a better view of the multi-axis tourbillon

Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual Specifications

Movement: Cal. 388; manual-winding; 46 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, twin power reserve indicators
Case: 44 mm x 14.7 mm; 18k pink gold; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Alligator strap
Limited edition: 20 piece

Duometre Chronograph Moon

Another Duometre that’s been revamped inside and out is the Chronograph Moon, boasting an updated cal. 391 along with a delightful new dial and case.

The upgraded cal. 391 sets the latest model apart from its predecessor by incorporating a day-and-night indicator as well as a moon phase subtly integrated into the two sub-dials at the top. These small indicators have significantly transformed the feel of the watch, lending it a more romantic look thanks to the blue and gold disc depicting the sun, moon, and stars. However, some might find the addition of a moon phase without a date somewhat unconventional or unexpected.

Furthermore, the dial of the Chronograph Moon has been enhanced, featuring a more subtle mix of textures rather than the single egg-shell texture covering the entire surface. This refinement lends the dial a more upscale appearance, particularly when complemented by the new color – “salmon” on the platinum model. In addition, the dial is slightly domed at the edge, matching the curvature of the “box” sapphire crystal, creating a retro feel that further sets this apart from the earlier Duometre Chronograph.

Note the new construction and finish of the case and dial

Turning the watch over, there’s just as much to see on the back as the front, as the cal. 391 incorporates an interesting grand sonnerie-style winding click, and the chronograph mechanism, including the column wheel, is also on display.

A technical highlight of this movement, aside from the separate gear trains for timekeeping and chronograph, is the fact that it has a “lightning” seconds, comprising a second hand at six o’clock that completes a revolution once every second to indicate elapsed time down to one-sixth of a second.

An interesting barrel construction with the grand-sonnerie style winding click

Duometre Chronograph Moon Specifications

Movement: Cal. 391; manual-winding; 50 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, moon phase, day-and-night indicator, twin power reserve indicators
Case: 42.5 mm x 14.2 mm; 18k pink gold or platinum; water resistant to 50 m
Strap: Alligator strap

Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

For those who appreciate the Duometre for its concept of separating the gear train but desire something simpler in terms of complications, there is a third new model for the year – the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire.

Similar to the two watches above, the Quantieme Lunaire receives a new case with more nuanced finishes, but the real news here is the fact that this is the first-ever steel case in the Duometre collection. Given it’s the simplest in terms of functions, this could serve as a good entry point.

There is separate components that are securely screwed to the case, explaining why they exhibit distinct breaks or boundaries between the lugs and case

In addition, the Quantieme Lunaire also has a new dial in sunburst blue, along with some graining finish here and there. The dial is domed, just like the other two watches, making it look more appealing than ever.

The movement within is the cal. 381, which is the same movement found in earlier versions of the Quantieme Lunaire.

Duometre Quantieme Lunaire Specifications

Movement: Cal. 381; manual-winding; 50 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, 1/6th of a second, date, moon phase, twin power reserve indicators
Case: 42.5 mm x 13.05 mm; steel; water resistant to 50 m
Strap: Alligator strap